tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-57951385581843546002024-03-29T07:42:59.825+02:00HibernaatiopesäkeHibernointi on muun muassa sitä, kun perhoset vetäytyvät hyvin nautitun sokeri-punaviiniaterian jälkeen pesään levolle. Meidän pesämme on meidän kotimme, jossa harrastetaan elämää. Niin, ja keskiaikaa: pukuompelua, kutomista, veistämistä, värjäämistä.
This is a blog with long name. Some call it Hibis.
It is about life and historical handcraft, like weaving, carving,sewing and dyeing.Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.comBlogger361125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-61304256029445046412020-12-14T18:35:00.000+02:002020-12-14T18:35:26.478+02:00Nauha-aarteita / Tablet-Woven Treasures<p> </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLl_r-Hx3UADAHOxRXqWK4Ub9l01_mm3epn_j3KU98zt31ArjquBDPpNXav1Tnf56dCV9ojUxLhGgGQ9Q3d8wkyLclxdXHkPFv1XyCGUwUKX3y6wVL1WL_GJmO4t_AEvHOezkKGMChaUpO/s2048/pyhiin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1398" height="462" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLl_r-Hx3UADAHOxRXqWK4Ub9l01_mm3epn_j3KU98zt31ArjquBDPpNXav1Tnf56dCV9ojUxLhGgGQ9Q3d8wkyLclxdXHkPFv1XyCGUwUKX3y6wVL1WL_GJmO4t_AEvHOezkKGMChaUpO/w315-h462/pyhiin.jpg" width="315" /></a></div><p></p><p><i>Täällä ollaan! Kuvassa syksyinen muisto pieneltä pyhiinvaellukselta</i></p><p><i>Here I am still! Photo from small pilgrimage this autumn.</i></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><b>Hei ja hello!</b></span></p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">Kuten moni on huomannut, blogirintamalla ei ole hirveästi viime vuosina tapahtunut. Niistä ajoi aika ohi, kun kaikki menimme tuonne sosiaaliseen mediaan. Siellähän kaikki tapahtuu, Instassa ja Facessa. Ja vähän YouTubessakin.</p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;">Mutta nyt on pikkuisen kerrattava kuulumisia, niin paljon isoja asioita on tapahtunut.</p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">Vuonna 2013 tuli ulos Maikki Kariston ja minun lautanauhakirja Omenaisia ja revonneniä. Heti sen ilmestyttyä aloimme suunnitella toista lautanauhakirjaa. Se on nyt valmis. Sen nimi on Nauha-aarteita – Arkeologisia lautanauhoja Suomen rautakaudelta. Julkaisija on taas hyvä kumppanimme Salakirjat. <a href="https://www.salakirjat.net/product/348/nauha-aarteita---arkeologisia-lautanauhoja-suomen-rautakaudelta" style="background-color: transparent; box-shadow: currentcolor 0px 1px 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-decoration-line: none; transition: all 0.2s ease 0s;">Kirjan voi tilata sieltä</a></p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">Kirjasta tulee myös englanninkielinen käännös nimeltä Tablet-woven Treasures – Archeological Bands from Finnish Iron Age. Kirjassa on monen vuoden työn tulos: Maikki on tutkinut ja tulkinnut Museoviraston kokoelmiin kuuluvia nauhafragmentteja. Hän on tehnyt niistä kudontamallit ja minä olen koekutonut kaikki 56 kirjan nauhaa.</p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">Eikä tässä vielä kaikki: yhdessä Jenni Sahramaan kanssa valmistelemme myös kirjaa Suomen rautakauden puvuista. Se nimi on Löydöstä muinaispuvuksi ja sen toivomme saavamme ulos myös vuoden 2021 alusta. Kirja on myöhässä, kyllä. Mutta hitaasti tehden hyvä tulee – venynyt aikataulu on myös mahdollistanut paljon laajemman sisällön kuin alun perin ajattelimme.</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin: 1em 0px;"><a class="no-line" href="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/loydosta.jpg" style="background-color: transparent; box-shadow: transparent 0px 0px 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-decoration-line: none; transition: all 0.2s ease 0s;"><img alt="" class="wp-image-3426" data-attachment-id="3426" data-comments-opened="0" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="loydosta" data-large-file="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/loydosta.jpg?w=739" data-medium-file="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/loydosta.jpg?w=225" data-orig-file="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/loydosta.jpg" data-orig-size="1080,1440" data-permalink="https://swanrivercrafts.com/loydosta/" height="701" loading="lazy" sizes="(max-width: 526px) 100vw, 526px" src="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/loydosta.jpg?w=768" srcset="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/loydosta.jpg?w=768 768w, https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/loydosta.jpg?w=526 526w, https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/loydosta.jpg?w=1052 1052w, https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/loydosta.jpg?w=113 113w, https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/loydosta.jpg?w=225 225w" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; height: auto; max-width: 100%;" width="526" /></a><figcaption style="box-sizing: inherit; color: inherit; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; position: relative;">Olen viime aikoina tehnyt useita rautakauden vaatteita. Tämä viittakin ehti vielä kirjaan mukaan. / Lately I have made several items for our Finnish Iron Age dress book too.</figcaption></figure><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">Jos olet Facebookissa tai Instagramissa – etsi meidät käsiimme sieltä. Lautanauhat /Tablet weaving, Swan River Crafts ja Löydöstä muinaispuvuksi on FB:n puolella, Swanmervi Instagramissa. Ja lupaan _tulen tännekin useammin!</p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">Ps. Tilaustöitä en ole ehtinyt hirveästi tehdä, kun on ollut useampi kirjaprojekti työn alla yhtä aikaa.</p><figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin: 1em 0px;"><a class="no-line" href="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansi-1.jpg" style="background-color: transparent; box-shadow: transparent 0px 0px 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-decoration-line: none; transition: all 0.2s ease 0s;"><img alt="" class="wp-image-3420" data-attachment-id="3420" data-comments-opened="0" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="kansi-1" data-large-file="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansi-1.jpg?w=739" data-medium-file="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansi-1.jpg?w=231" data-orig-file="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansi-1.jpg" data-orig-size="769,1000" data-permalink="https://swanrivercrafts.com/kansi-1/" height="687" loading="lazy" sizes="(max-width: 531px) 100vw, 531px" src="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansi-1.jpg?w=769" srcset="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansi-1.jpg?w=115 115w, https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansi-1.jpg?w=231 231w" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; height: auto; max-width: 100%;" width="531" /></a><figcaption style="box-sizing: inherit; color: inherit; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; position: relative;">Uudessa lautanauhakirjassamme on ainutlaatuinen kokoelma<br style="box-sizing: inherit;" />rautakauden lautanauhoja.</figcaption></figure><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">As you have noticed – blogs are not in fashion at the moment. Everything happens in social media – so do I. But I had to come and tell some news.</p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">Oh dear, so much has happened! But now the big news is our second tablet weaving book.</p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">We started the project right after our first one, Applesies and Fox Noses. That came out 2013. During the years Maikki has done incredible work byt reseraching our tablet woven treasures from Finnish iron age. She has made the weaving patterns and I have test woven all. As a result came this book – first in finnish but soon also in English! It is called – as suitable is – Tablet-Woven Treasures – Archeological Bands from Finnish Iron age.</p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">It has 56 patterns – ALL based on actual finds. Imagine that! It is a unique collection – with any measure.</p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">But this is not all! I have also been writing a book about Finnish Iron Age dresses with Jenni Sahramaa. We planned to publish it already this year but there has been delays – but it was actually good. Now we have even more material in the book.</p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">I have to admit – blogging or running a webpage is not the first thing on my mind at the moment.</p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">If you wish to know more about what is happening and what we are doing – then visit FB-pages like Lautanauhat/Tablet weaving, or Swan River Crafts or Löydöstä muinaispuvuksi. Or find me at Instagram – Swanmervi is my name.</p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">But I try to come here too – when I have time </p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">pages like Lautanauhat/Tablet weaving, or Swan River Crafts or Löydöstä muinaispuvuksi. Or find me at Instagram – Swanmervi is my name.</p><p style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 1.75em; margin-top: 0px;">But I try to come here too – when I have time <img alt="😀" class="emoji" draggable="false" role="img" scale="0" src="https://s0.wp.com/wp-content/mu-plugins/wpcom-smileys/twemoji/2/svg/1f600.svg" style="background: none !important; border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; box-sizing: inherit; display: inline !important; height: 1em !important; margin: 0px 0.07em !important; max-width: 100%; padding: 0px !important; vertical-align: -0.1em !important; width: 1em !important;" /></p><figure class="wp-block-image size-large is-resized" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin: 1em 0px;"><a class="no-line" href="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansienglanti-1.jpg" style="background-color: transparent; box-shadow: transparent 0px 0px 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-decoration-line: none; transition: all 0.2s ease 0s;"><img alt="" class="wp-image-3419" data-attachment-id="3419" data-comments-opened="0" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="kansienglanti-1" data-large-file="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansienglanti-1.jpg?w=739" data-medium-file="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansienglanti-1.jpg?w=240" data-orig-file="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansienglanti-1.jpg" data-orig-size="1080,1351" data-permalink="https://swanrivercrafts.com/kansienglanti-1/" height="468" loading="lazy" sizes="(max-width: 374px) 100vw, 374px" src="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansienglanti-1.jpg?w=819" srcset="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansienglanti-1.jpg?w=374 374w, https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansienglanti-1.jpg?w=748 748w, https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansienglanti-1.jpg?w=120 120w, https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/kansienglanti-1.jpg?w=240 240w" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; height: auto; max-width: 100%;" width="374" /></a><figcaption style="box-sizing: inherit; color: inherit; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; position: relative;">English version will be published in the beginning of year 2021</figcaption></figure><figure class="wp-block-image size-large" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; font-family: "Libre Baskerville", Libre, Georgia, Times, serif; font-size: 16px; margin: 1em 0px;"><a class="no-line" href="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/nauhat.jpg" style="background-color: transparent; box-shadow: transparent 0px 0px 0px 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #404040; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-decoration-line: none; transition: all 0.2s ease 0s;"><img alt="" class="wp-image-3422" data-attachment-id="3422" data-comments-opened="0" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="nauhat" data-large-file="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/nauhat.jpg?w=739" data-medium-file="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/nauhat.jpg?w=300" data-orig-file="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/nauhat.jpg" data-orig-size="2048,1360" data-permalink="https://swanrivercrafts.com/nauhat/" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" src="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/nauhat.jpg?w=1024" srcset="https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/nauhat.jpg?w=1024 1024w, https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/nauhat.jpg 2048w, https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/nauhat.jpg?w=150 150w, https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/nauhat.jpg?w=300 300w, https://swanrivercrafts.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/nauhat.jpg?w=768 768w" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; height: auto; max-width: 100%;" /></a><figcaption style="box-sizing: inherit; color: inherit; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; position: relative;">Oikea aarre. Real treasure.</figcaption></figure>Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-54175012526346009232017-11-02T10:07:00.002+02:002017-11-02T10:07:50.460+02:00Uuteen osoitteeseen / to a new address<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKb0n0q7XJvmJDApgciezr_K-xrszW9lP8IT4vBpMCb2FelGFnLfiWD5pzR_JvVpsFUZaRSISbKyuzTBdQo4jm0_XB_AvCqSvoYeAT98vtq0ANzvxeKp-jJZ369byguFmRHoz-ve5medxN/s1600/IMG_2109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKb0n0q7XJvmJDApgciezr_K-xrszW9lP8IT4vBpMCb2FelGFnLfiWD5pzR_JvVpsFUZaRSISbKyuzTBdQo4jm0_XB_AvCqSvoYeAT98vtq0ANzvxeKp-jJZ369byguFmRHoz-ve5medxN/s400/IMG_2109.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Hei arvoisa lukija!</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Hieman surullisena minun on kerrottava, että tämän blogi eli Hibernaatiopesäkkeen kanssa on tullut Bloggeriin liittyviä ongelmia. Blogia suljetaan käytöstä noin kerran päivässä, koska siinä on muka haittaohjelma. Riku on tehnyt kaikkensa ongelman poistamiseksi, mutta toimenpiteidenkin jälkeen Blogger on yksipuolisesti jatkanut Hibernaatiopesäkkeen poistamista.<br />
Mutta! Olemme edelleen olemassa - ja suurin osa kymmenen vuoden aikana julkaistusta aineistosta jatkaa elämäänsä uudessa osoitteessa.<br />
Swan River Crafts on toiminimi, joka tunnetaan myös nimellä Joutsenjoen käsityöt eli minun ja myös Rikun töitä saa sitä kautta. Muutimme firman sivun nyt myös Hibernaatiopesäkkeen uudeksi kodiksi.<br />
Jatkossa tapaamme siis <a href="https://swanrivercrafts.com/" target="_blank">täällä!</a><br />
Tallenna uusi osoite kirjanmerkkeihisi ja linkkiluetteloon. Emmekä pahastu jos jaat tätä tietoa sinne, missä sitä mielestäsi tarvitaan.<br />
Siis: https://swanrivercrafts.com. Tervetuloa.<br />
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Kuva on tällä kertaa Kansallismuseon uudesta perusnäyttelystä ja antaa vihjeen siitä, mitä haluaisin seuraavaksi tehdä: kerätä mahdollisimman paljon rautakauden tekstiilitietoa yhden otsikon alle.<br />
Katsotaan miten tälle unelmalle käy.<br />
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terveisin Mervi & Riku<br />
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<b>Dear reader!</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
I feel a bit sad telling you this, but seems that it´s time to change to a new address. We have had severe problem with Blogger who claims that my blog has some kind of malicius code - thanks to old template we had. Riku har worked a lot to fix everything,. but still Blogger removes this blog once a day.<br />
Continuous complaining and trying to get contact to Blogger has taken too much time and energy - and it it extremely stressfull - that we have decided to move. Riku managed to save the ten years work which I have made with this blog - and all material is now safe.<br />
<br />
We will delete some of it in new address and keep all the tutorials and the most popular posts.<br />
When I did my master exam in crafting I created a page for my small shop Swan River Crafts and from this day it has now become a new home for Hibernaatiopesäke too. (hey you can find us at Facebook too!)<br />
So: if you want to read us still - go to <a href="https://swanrivercrafts.com/" target="_blank">Swan River Crafts </a>. And if you need nice textile or wood crafts from us - don´t hesitate to contact! Add new address to your bookmarks and links, please and see you at the new address! And I don´t mind if you share this information to whom it may concern.<br />
So: https://swanrivercrafts.com - Wellcome.<br />
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The cover photo is taken at Nationalmuseum in Helsinki and it gives a hint of my Big Dream and it is collecting Finnish iron age textile material in one address. Let's see how it goes...<br />
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yours sincerely Mervi & RikuMervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-2166972343557587132017-10-10T10:35:00.001+03:002017-10-10T10:35:21.754+03:00Rautakauden koruista lautanauhaksi / pattern from Finnish iron age jewellery<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2jabIK28Bq5a1YCj_BgK8GaAGsbYg0Ia51uS_XJ5-5BWt9QdqHkvkw9d-GJYOKDr2NFml3YqNVH_zq4jpEXJm6fFR4HtmyA91pHHSCUtYOdhEtNYv8n3djGqysjn2z9jyZQjIIsXcAdXV/s1600/nauha1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2jabIK28Bq5a1YCj_BgK8GaAGsbYg0Ia51uS_XJ5-5BWt9QdqHkvkw9d-GJYOKDr2NFml3YqNVH_zq4jpEXJm6fFR4HtmyA91pHHSCUtYOdhEtNYv8n3djGqysjn2z9jyZQjIIsXcAdXV/s640/nauha1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Kuten olen aiemminkin kertonut, meillä on Maikin kanssa lautanauhojen kunniaksi oikein Facebook-sivu<a href="https://www.facebook.com/Lautanauhat/" target="_blank"> Lautanauhat / tablet weaving.</a> Julkaisemme siellä ohjeita etenkin kun tykkääjien määrässä tulee täyteen tasalukuja. Jokin aika sitten tuli 5000 tykkääjää täyteen, joten oli uuden lahjanauhan aika.</span></div>
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Tähän malliin on otettu inspiraatiota Suomen rautakaudelta, mutta nyt ei olekaan kyseessä nauhalöytö, vaan koruja muutettuna lautanauhaksi.</div>
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Tekniikka on toimikas, jota muuten ei vielä tähän mennessä ole Suomen nauhoista löydetty. </div>
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Iloisia hetkiä nauhan kutomisen parissa!</div>
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As I have told before, me and Maikki have a Facebook page for our tablet weaving work, called <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Lautanauhat/" target="_blank">Lautanauhat / tablet weaving</a>. We publish patterns to celebrate special things, like when we reach another thousand likes or so. Now that page has over 5000 likes, we published another pattern.</div>
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This was inspired by Finnish iron age, not the textile finds, but jewellery. The technique is twill. So far there are NO twill bands found in Finland.</div>
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Have nice time with this lovely pattern!</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-align: start;">Pictures from book Ella Kivikoski: Suomen rautakauden kuvasto II, 1951.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLIwgMv9klyNiH7GTVUfv2sXdvsvPftgEWDpda7VRXuB3yoCWD7z35YUDwoHzUDLYhg3DbY2z6P3DHniyHqsVEuMEFLn6KtO_4R1_heShzZWLluvxooSGsB0-57C6gQNsP_HXooOwFZ8Bg/s1600/heppa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1223" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLIwgMv9klyNiH7GTVUfv2sXdvsvPftgEWDpda7VRXuB3yoCWD7z35YUDwoHzUDLYhg3DbY2z6P3DHniyHqsVEuMEFLn6KtO_4R1_heShzZWLluvxooSGsB0-57C6gQNsP_HXooOwFZ8Bg/s400/heppa.jpg" width="305" /></a></div>
<span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 14px;"><i>Tämä onkin monelle tuttu kuvio muun muassa Kalevala Korun mallistosta. Ikaalisista löydetty riipus, ihan selvästi hevonen.</i></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><i>Animal shaped charm - looks like a horse. From Ikaalinen.</i></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikYK62h8wb95uSooZ30Q7r2G8WzrYm0l0u29qe7m65xYKmieBFWwHVq2LXm6bMpEoLzOUQMKI9yERBhRi8mE0Wg_MesAb0Ob5ASeGmNR7mlr8w2XTqD5FDvLLR65glqM6YVFPwq_MGBp0m/s1600/lintu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikYK62h8wb95uSooZ30Q7r2G8WzrYm0l0u29qe7m65xYKmieBFWwHVq2LXm6bMpEoLzOUQMKI9yERBhRi8mE0Wg_MesAb0Ob5ASeGmNR7mlr8w2XTqD5FDvLLR65glqM6YVFPwq_MGBp0m/s400/lintu.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<i><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Pronssisia linturiipuksia Köyliöstä /</span> <span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Bronze bird charms, finds from Köyliö.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyn5MoyDJRKPRNv3lLN-uxfF_xIQ1Rn5PKpHaXXScETVu4RY3mAtlAnE9Epw7vi643apCvIO46er_aFofl5VEWEecjXuh3RLfQzZX_Jr6UZAnlDCXMJGhkNLkStRPg6aI9QanTqM5mb3Wf/s1600/spiraali1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1600" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyn5MoyDJRKPRNv3lLN-uxfF_xIQ1Rn5PKpHaXXScETVu4RY3mAtlAnE9Epw7vi643apCvIO46er_aFofl5VEWEecjXuh3RLfQzZX_Jr6UZAnlDCXMJGhkNLkStRPg6aI9QanTqM5mb3Wf/s400/spiraali1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-align: left;"><i>Mahdollisesti kilpeen kuulunut, prossispiraalein koristeltu nahkanauhan osa.</i></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-align: left;"><i>Possible a piece of strap from a shield, decorated with bronze spirals. Myllymäki, Nousiainen.</i></span><br style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-align: left;" /></div>
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<b>Ohje on kolme sivua pitkä, muista tallettaa ne kaikki</b></div>
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<b>The pattern is three sheets long so remember to copy them all</b></div>
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Onko Maikin kehittämä merkintätapa tuttu: //// tarkoittaa laudan asentoa. Oikealle kallistuva silmu kierretään eteen eli itsestä poispäin, vasemmalle kallistuva silmu taakse eli itseä kohti.</div>
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How to read Maikki´s notation: //// is the position of the card. Stitch leaning to right means turning forward aka away from weaver. The stich leaning to the left is turning back aka towards the weaver.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipPv1i8KjtWXxhDfAxm_wCpMA4pAajhpVk-63x9TueWiV1opY4RySc4QLohpb4QfNqxLyVI7jbENF0IqyP_VlZpsE8PRSxFQk_PYtAuVJeWpFH7SysHskXZzE0GW6J8DGEU5whyphenhypheniJoPOqi/s1600/fb+5000-1+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1132" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipPv1i8KjtWXxhDfAxm_wCpMA4pAajhpVk-63x9TueWiV1opY4RySc4QLohpb4QfNqxLyVI7jbENF0IqyP_VlZpsE8PRSxFQk_PYtAuVJeWpFH7SysHskXZzE0GW6J8DGEU5whyphenhypheniJoPOqi/s640/fb+5000-1+%25281%2529.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">This is page 1 - total pattern is three pages so remember to print all three!</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Tämä on ensimmäinen sivu kolmesta. Muista tulostaa kaikki kolme!</span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNjilamvOyFFV2fvMBLvAqfvxxJVqrDo8b5iPLGxWXrlcQCDBr4uioA1HJStCrc0rr4cjX2n5rgZNpuT2scKPBMDflBTp6_vycYipt3e3BUn20aQLvzKKyyrHwNBofDp7r1cxFDP4b_Vpf/s1600/fb+5000-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1132" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNjilamvOyFFV2fvMBLvAqfvxxJVqrDo8b5iPLGxWXrlcQCDBr4uioA1HJStCrc0rr4cjX2n5rgZNpuT2scKPBMDflBTp6_vycYipt3e3BUn20aQLvzKKyyrHwNBofDp7r1cxFDP4b_Vpf/s640/fb+5000-2.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">This is page 2 - total pattern is three pages so remember to print all three.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Tämä on toinen sivu kolmesta. Muista tulostaa kaikki kolme!</span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx1Euc_OYKhZtHMkd2xKPaCsexG_RWgsXl_CRHKbcvxJt9Nz8hPcJITctSuRWTXxnaglHUxGBtrRwdllcNdeBBN3dbaEXNna-z8lw7wbmIjVZl912z8mhMA9TdGfn8iUIE_EJko8TruB8l/s1600/fb+5000-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1132" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx1Euc_OYKhZtHMkd2xKPaCsexG_RWgsXl_CRHKbcvxJt9Nz8hPcJITctSuRWTXxnaglHUxGBtrRwdllcNdeBBN3dbaEXNna-z8lw7wbmIjVZl912z8mhMA9TdGfn8iUIE_EJko8TruB8l/s640/fb+5000-3.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">This is page 3 </span><br style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Tämä on kolmas ja viimeinen sivu.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL4w8j99FFpr8zxLMpSAiDDKzTpA3cwvJn9elNdtwWAF-d8Q572LBooNH6mCYAb3OYNHXfD3pMizaIAEUd-t-r_GEflD6x_xKNQK6wkdFgVa737i4xeRX4TVJJvfH_E53tCD0wrv0h5hRf/s1600/nauha2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL4w8j99FFpr8zxLMpSAiDDKzTpA3cwvJn9elNdtwWAF-d8Q572LBooNH6mCYAb3OYNHXfD3pMizaIAEUd-t-r_GEflD6x_xKNQK6wkdFgVa737i4xeRX4TVJJvfH_E53tCD0wrv0h5hRf/s400/nauha2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"><i>Pienet hevoset ja linnut vuorottelevat nauhassa. Molemmat hyvin tärkeitä ja symbolisia eläimiä rautakaudella.</i></span><br />
<i><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Small birds and horses hop on this band! Both animals were important symbols to Finnish iron age people.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPPHnvgcxY7hWnwXetagsBPB5FJbe3lNJ2OsKqpifM-5G48NG3sKQjKwXJPbYBGZOJx6OT9MStetft4be0bQGRdjBbNwO0K9n51KkjvwT0bm8E6W6El6CyweZZXq-6F6Y-18Wpt11t2US3/s1600/nauha3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPPHnvgcxY7hWnwXetagsBPB5FJbe3lNJ2OsKqpifM-5G48NG3sKQjKwXJPbYBGZOJx6OT9MStetft4be0bQGRdjBbNwO0K9n51KkjvwT0bm8E6W6El6CyweZZXq-6F6Y-18Wpt11t2US3/s400/nauha3.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Kudontavinkki! Ohjeeseen on merkitty pystyviivat helpottamaan kutomista. Voit luoda loimen tekemällä pystyviivojen mukaisia ryhmiä käyttämällä erivärisiä lautoja. Näin pystyt helpommin seuraamaan ohjetta etenkin sen yksivärisissä kohdissa.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">A tip to ease the weaving: there are marked vertical stripes on pattern - mark your cards according to the groups which the stripes create. It makes following the pattern easier specially on one-coloured parts.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjTN3DAzbABsDknF2s3QcTnpWm7ip7kPAUwDX4hdw8mI67cbm-ubqaLoN3hCQ0naEjgjd-m7WgOoowMmTWH5zjJ09XDvgG2iISRVSiiW7pxnFilNGRK5tTfssE8IXQ1D7JENmQgFDnLF-M/s1600/nauha4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjTN3DAzbABsDknF2s3QcTnpWm7ip7kPAUwDX4hdw8mI67cbm-ubqaLoN3hCQ0naEjgjd-m7WgOoowMmTWH5zjJ09XDvgG2iISRVSiiW7pxnFilNGRK5tTfssE8IXQ1D7JENmQgFDnLF-M/s400/nauha4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Valitsin mallinauhaan rautakauden trendivärit eli tumman sinisen ja pronssin keltaiset.</i></div>
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<i>I chose the Finnish iron age trend colours for my sample band: dark blue and bronze yellow.</i></div>
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Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-89521465226493342082017-09-18T19:22:00.000+03:002017-09-18T19:40:45.438+03:00Making of: Anna´s and Francesco´s golden dresses <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC9Vk7PpoGeyRYAaERrBdDXAIKaNWiZJGY_lmJ41h4SjOsA86u4OOj2Tx9n67dRCm_mRKAxhurhyphenhypheniBEn4HKcu7_icgegf54NK2RLYbDm1ZHjZH9IGML0wrrmap_I-jfMF7CxpwWXsPz1qA/s1600/h%25C3%25A4%25C3%25A4t1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1154" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC9Vk7PpoGeyRYAaERrBdDXAIKaNWiZJGY_lmJ41h4SjOsA86u4OOj2Tx9n67dRCm_mRKAxhurhyphenhypheniBEn4HKcu7_icgegf54NK2RLYbDm1ZHjZH9IGML0wrrmap_I-jfMF7CxpwWXsPz1qA/s640/h%25C3%25A4%25C3%25A4t1.jpg" width="459" /></a></div>
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<i>Saturday 16th September, wedding of Anna Attiliani and Francesco Betti, also known ans Damisella and Todeschino , who actually lived in the Imola at 14th century.</i><br />
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It all started year ago in Visby, Gotland. My young italian friends Anna and Francesco lived with us in Battle of Wisby camp. One day we were again taking a walk to the old town, and they asked me to take their photo at their favorite spot.<br />
I did. They looked happy and very much in love so I sait that "you can use this at your wedding invitations".<br />
You see, ten years ago me and Riku were in Visby and we got our picture taken - and year later we used that picture in our wedding invitations.<br />
This young couple looked at each others and started to giggle. "Psstt.. this is a secret and you are first to know... we are getting married, next year".<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0R0X4XvzaIzHuG4guDFCNNn0YhyQnZrt_dDu_2USEJDpGZ6azy2T_HyV1Vne76BC9ngrZNyMJGa6WyfYC1CtX2DXXv6E9sCEhbAWLcoKwHsBLHhm2aQhfjodctYW2hy1XiMogZTPFGGTN/s1600/af.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="960" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0R0X4XvzaIzHuG4guDFCNNn0YhyQnZrt_dDu_2USEJDpGZ6azy2T_HyV1Vne76BC9ngrZNyMJGa6WyfYC1CtX2DXXv6E9sCEhbAWLcoKwHsBLHhm2aQhfjodctYW2hy1XiMogZTPFGGTN/s400/af.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Later that week they came to me. They had a question about their wedding.<br />
"Would you make our dresses", they asked.<br />
"Of course I would, it is an honour", I replied.<br />
Medieval dresses yes. I forgot to ask "what kind of a dresses".<br />
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"We want real silk and real gold, no lurex".<br />
<a href="http://tacuinummedievale.blogspot.fi/2017/09/il-matrimonio-di-damisella-e-todeschino.html" target="_blank">"Well, we are thinking of pattern specially made for us, handwoven, real silk and real gold..."</a><br />
(link takes you to read more from Anna´s blog Tacuinum Medievale)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis4wpYw68_kPp1zIPg5qgpvvJn2DbtzPCsLcnl0IzZS-iDU-S1CacIsOyElKTMkeIQPj-p9ZpWn68S4sg0tGCdoVQb0jtKed73XI599ieW_2-ZhsMzSRg_bkvVHrVZIWGw4E2DO2dSaOy9/s1600/malli.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis4wpYw68_kPp1zIPg5qgpvvJn2DbtzPCsLcnl0IzZS-iDU-S1CacIsOyElKTMkeIQPj-p9ZpWn68S4sg0tGCdoVQb0jtKed73XI599ieW_2-ZhsMzSRg_bkvVHrVZIWGw4E2DO2dSaOy9/s400/malli.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>This is what they asked me to to: they are from same manuscript, but from two different pictures.For the wedding they made this picture with little help of photoshop.</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwsZo3zVR8NYAjQjfNYU0vxko27NF_jX7OmESn16yKbyeswUQEYbq0KDW1mLNqRHl8x8jES2Yg3UQp4j9aKvAcBE_IM5JEAnvELI8LcOoaDhCmB6ZaSsKOv1oNupilOFa0hE_GUVNDZBBD/s1600/h%25C3%25A4%25C3%25A4t3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwsZo3zVR8NYAjQjfNYU0vxko27NF_jX7OmESn16yKbyeswUQEYbq0KDW1mLNqRHl8x8jES2Yg3UQp4j9aKvAcBE_IM5JEAnvELI8LcOoaDhCmB6ZaSsKOv1oNupilOFa0hE_GUVNDZBBD/s400/h%25C3%25A4%25C3%25A4t3.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<i>Long train and confetti, the thing they throw at wedding, is a lovely combination...</i><br />
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So the one year long project started.<br />
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During the winter we talked about the model, layers, details and most important: the gold fabric. I followed the project from aside, like "yes, that pattern would be awesome".<br />
Then this spring I got message: "fabrics are almost ready".<br />
It was time time to make first fitting.<br />
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How to deal when distance between client and seamstress is as far as Italy-Finland? We travel.<br />
For first fitting Anna and Francesco came to Lahti Finland.<br />
And this is the point where Noora comes in.<br />
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I met this talented tailor/dressmaker at Hämeenlinna medieval market few years ago. She came to my booth and we talked. She was interested in historical clothing and also medieval. I told her to come to my dress course - I had no idea I was talking to a double master in clothmaking...<br />
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This spring we sat together in Maikki Karisto´s spinning workshop and I told her that I´m going to make extraordinary dresses for a wedding in Italy.<br />
I could see that she was more than interested so I asked if she wanted to come and help with the fitting. She is a master in pattern making so I had some selfish thoughts when I asked her to join the fitting.<br />
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<i>Italian guests in Lahti. The lake ice was already too weak to walk.</i><br />
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At the end of March we finally had guest from Italy.<br />
We could not tell anyone why Anna and Francesco visited Finland in that month, when ice and snow were almost gone.<br />
We did nothing else but fitting. And basting. And testing. 14 hours a day. We finished work only some hours before guests had to go back on very early flight.<br />
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<i>Happy clients resting after crispy chicken meal on famous Bunny couch.</i><br />
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<i>Noora has a nickname "millimeter", and it´s given for a reason. Her skills in pattern marking are superior.</i><br />
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Francesco´s fabric was already with them and Anna´s fabric was brought to my hands by a trustworthy delivery company few weeks later.<br />
Same time I was working with Nesat project and then Vapriikki museum placed their big order so I was rather busy at the time...<br />
So all the time when I was posting pictures of finished works I was also sewing these dresses.<br />
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I started working from top to bottom:<br />
1. Anna´s supportive linen underdress, 2. Francescos figure shaping doublet. Very fashionable at 14th century!<br />
3. Francesco´s silk dress, that hides the doublet.<br />
4. Anna´s silk dress.<br />
and then finally dresses number 5 and 6 - the two gold layers.<br />
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I decided not to think too much the fact that I was working with unique material - which also cost quite a lot. "It´s only fabric", I told to Noora, who did not dare to make first cut on gold.<br />
So I did. Oh heavens it ruins the fabric scissors! The "just silk" dresses Noora cut with her steel carbon blade "these are only fro silk" scissors, but for metal me chose to sacrifice my scissors.<br />
You see, cutting and sewing gold is not easy, specially sewing when there are several layers. It makes needle blunt - the needles had to be sharpened frequently.<br />
It hurts fingers, makes them bleed, if you don't us thimble. Wrists hurt. And it´s very slow, I noticed.<br />
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I made the clothes in my kitchen - and this little help was with me most of the time.<br />
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Anna´s pattern has birds and feathers. It´s based on extant piece located Uppsala cathedral, where they also have Margareta´s golden dress.<br />
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"I can´t cut this I can´t cut this..." Noora cut´s fabric every day at work,. but this was something different. That is not a cheap fabric, I can tell you.<br />
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"Naah, just give ge the scissors, it´s only fabric", I replied. Tikru agrees.<br />
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"Ok, I can go from here".<br />
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Padding, padding padding... every stich by hand.<br />
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Yes, the gold fabric was fraying a lot. So I found these golden yarn balls everywhere in our house. And I still find gold threads, even dresses left the house over a month ago.</div>
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After padding I was sewing silk with silk,</div>
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and then more silk with silk.</div>
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And then I was sewing silk+gold and super fine wool with silk.<br />
Sewing through real gold is not easy, I can not tell. But I l learned quickly in which angle the needle goes through - and when it doesn´t.<br />
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Then it was time to do the second fitting, this time in Italy. And yes, we still could not tell what we were doing, so "for no reason me and Noora just decided to spend weekend in Italy". We stayed in B&B close to Milan airport and fitted and fitted. Not 14 hours a day - we were in Italy so we ate too.<br />
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<i>Second fitting In Italy. Anna got the fit the basted dress to see the shape. I decided to shorten dress a little bit from the front, to make it easier to move with.</i><br />
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The pattern on Anna´s dress is inspired by <a href="http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/uppsala.html" target="_blank">Margareta´s golden dress</a>, the famous dress from Uppsala. We also decided to make her a proper trail. The very wide skirt part is pieced - the fabric itself is narrow. We did not cut gores in the middle because we wanted to keep the pattern intact in the whole front piece. The back piece has a middle seam and both pink and golden layer have a side lacing.<br />
The fabric is 63 cm wide - the dress has almost 12 meters of it.. Anna had a plan for off cuts so we could spend some extra fabric to make patterns even.<br />
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Not just work, also sun and good food in Italy.<br />
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Anna finished her dress with pearls - like the original manuscript picture also has. Testing!<br />
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How about some padding..<br />
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My version of thimble: Moomin tape. Yes, the gold is hard for finger tips. I can tell that they do have my dna in one of the dresses...<br />
Every single stitch in these six dresses are handmade.<br />
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Buttons!<br />
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I was sitting in my kitchen and sewing - and sometimes there was sunlight, so I could just admire the shine of the silk and also gold.<br />
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I saved every piece of gold fabric and returned it to owners. They made some special gifts - I got for example a small purse of Francesco´s fabric - and he carefully separated gold threads to make tiny golden tassels to my purse <3 p=""><br />
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Francesco´s clothes ready - the middle layer is very basic, a bit like Bockstenman but in silk. I made also the fur work.<br />
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Francescos middle layer has tiny metal buttons.<br />
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Close up of Francesco´s patter - it has deer, dog and some kind of bird beast. His linins is light blue silk.</div>
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Final touch: Anna´s silk dress has tiny tiny hooks and eyes. They are made by Francesco and so small I can hardly see them (I am half blind you see, so some things I can´t do). Noora the Millimeter helped and if you look close, she also got some help...</div>
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When we travelled to fitting, all fabrics were in my hand luggage - and when Italian airport security service wanted to see what I had in my bag I told them "NOT TO TOUCH".<br />
When the dresses were made, we did not even consider of putting any of these to risk by sending them by mail. So: when we met in Sweden in the beginning of August, at Carnis banquette, I was carrying the dresses again in my red back pack as hand luggage to give them to new owners.<br />
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My work was done - Anna finished her outfit by sewing pearls to the pink silk layer sleeves and adding the gems and pearls to the golden dress neckline.<br />
More of the patterns, materials and acccessories you can real at Anna´s blog. The golden crown and Francesco´s belt are stunning work.<br />
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Anna and her father Walter.</div>
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One word. "Yes."<br />
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I want to thank Anna and Francesco for this once in a life time experience - it was an honour.</div>
Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-30087336433110044602017-07-31T10:57:00.000+03:002017-07-31T11:08:10.382+03:00Kaarinan viitan uudet värit / New colours of Kaarina shawl<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Krista ja "se" viitta, minulla vaaleampi harjoituskappale.</i></div>
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<i>Krista is wearing "the shawl", I´m wearing the lighter practice piece.</i></div>
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Tämän kuluneen vuoden kohokohta oli se, kun kävimme Krista Vajannon kanssa Tsekeissä <a href="http://www.nesat.org/" target="_blank">NESAT-</a>seminarissa esittelemässä viitan, joka perustuu <a href="https://helda.helsinki.fi/handle/10138/159210" target="_blank">Kristan väitöskirjatutkimukseen</a>. Kyseessä on Kaarinan kirkkomaan haudan 1 viitta. Alunperin vuoden 1990 analyysissä se on määritelty puna-harmaaksi, sitten vuonna 2009 Turun muinaispukuseminaarissa esiteltiin ruskea-harmaa ja nyt me tuotimme viitasta kolmannen väriversion.</div>
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Krista näet tuli väitöskirjatutkimuksessaan siihen tulokseen, että viitan loimilangat on värjätty fermentoidulla tanniinilla, ja ne olisivat siis punaruskeat. Viitan kudelangasta puolestaan näkyi jälkiä jäkäläväristä, joka antaa violettia.</div>
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No tämän kun kuulin jo aikoinaan <a href="https://www.facebook.com/mervi.pasanen.3/media_set?set=a.10152924404887620.1073741843.598197619&type=3&uploaded=1" target="_blank">Tarton seminaarin yhteydessä</a>, siis keväällä 2015, tuli mieleen että tämä pitää kokeilla. Krista ja Jaana Riikonen esittelivät tuolloin muutamia mahdollisiä värivaihtoehtoja, ja minä päätin kutoa viitan.</div>
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Asioita tapahtui, viime vuonna saimme työhön apurahan Kordelinin säätiöltä ja tässä se sitten on.</div>
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Nyt joudutte odottamaan lopullista artikkelia hetken aikaa, se nimittäin tulee NESAT -julkaisuun, joka tulee ulos.. toivottavasti mahdollisimman pian.</div>
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Tässä muutama kuva:</div>
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One of this years high light was NESAT (North Europan Symposium for Archaeological Textiles) where me and Krista Vajanto presented a shawl based on Kristas<a href="https://helda.helsinki.fi/handle/10138/159210" target="_blank"> PhD work</a>.</div>
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It´s s Finnish iron age shawl from Kaarina cemetery grave 1. Originally, in 1990, it was analysed as ped-grey, then at Finnish iron age textile seminar 2009 they presented a hazelnut brown-grey version. But now we have another thing to show: Krista´s dye analysis show that the warp had fermented tannins and the weft had traces of lichen dye, which giver purple.</div>
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I heard this for the first time in 2015 in Tarto Estonia, where we were on lecture tour with Krista and Jaana Riikonen. They showed some color options on test weave then and I decided to weave such a shawl.</div>
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Well... things happened and last year we got money from Kordelin foundation to make the shawl.</div>
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Now you have to wait for the final stage, the publication of NESAT XIII, but it should be out... soon.</div>
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But here you have some pictures:</div>
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Värjäys fermentoidulla paatsamankuorella menossa: nestepinnan alapuolella oleva lanka on keltainen, hapen kanssa kosketuksissa oleva osa punainen. </div>
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Dyeing with fermented buckthorn: the yarn in the vat is yellow, but on top where it reacts with oxygen it turns red.</div>
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Langat kuivatettiin auringossa, jossa väri muuttuin punaiseksi. Kuivat langat ravisteltiin ja huuhdottiin.</div>
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Yarns were dried in sun, and there they turn red. Dry yarns were shaken and rinsed.</div>
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Loimeksi punakultaa, kuteeksi purppuraa / warp reddish gold, weft purple.</div>
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Tadaah!</div>
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<span id="goog_1492731771"></span>...ja kun vauhtiin pääsin, niin teinpä sitten saman vielä puna-ruskeana<br />
...and why not make it in red-brown too...Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-50789930160631667312017-07-18T15:26:00.000+03:002017-07-18T15:26:34.669+03:00Birckala 1017 - Pirkkala 2017<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Hei täällä ollaan, rautakaudella! Here we are, in Finnish iron age!</i><br />
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Yksi kuluneen kevään suurponnistuksista omalta osaltani oli Birckala 1017 -näyttely. Vapriikista otettiin maaliskuun lopulla yhteyttä, että voisinko tehdä uuteen rautakausinäyttelyyn hieman tekstiilitöitä.<br />
Aluksi tilaus koski neulakintaita, lautanauhaa ja kasvivärjättyjä lankoja. Helppo homma!<br />
Mutta sitten tilaus kasvoi. Ehtisinkö pukea näyttelyyn kokonaisen perheen ja sotilaan? Ja tehdä sovitettavia vaatteita yleisölle.<br />
Tuota... oli siinä pari isoa tilausta kesken ja Nesat ja... no okei, tehdään pois!<br />
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Viisi viikkoa aikaa.<br />
Sinä aikana tein kaksi pellavapaitaa, kahdet villaiset housut, pronssispiraalein koristellun esiliinan ja hienon nauhan, pienen muinaismekon essuineen, seitsemän villaista tunikaa, neulakintaat, lautanauhoja, värjättyjä lankoja, kahdet säärisiteet...<br />
Ja jouduin muutes tinkimään periaatteestani "ei ikinä ompelukoneella". Vaatteiden piiloon jäävät saumat on ommeltu koneella, mutta muuten joka ikinen näkyvä pisto mukaanlukien kaikki sisäosien huolittelut käsin.<br />
Kankaat ovat pääosin Medeltidsmodelta, täyttä villaa. Pari pientä sovitusvaatetta on tehty ei-ihan-villasta eli sekoitekankaasta, ja säärisiteitä en todellakaan kutonut, vaan leikkasin kankaasta ja käänsin reunat.<br />
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Lisäksi kehräsin pienen näytteen vitriiniin. Kävin myös kutomassa lautanauhaa videolle (tulossa näyttelyyn) ja lisäksi luovutin museon käyttöön neulakinnaskurssien opetusmateriaalia (tulossa).<br />
Meillä oli museoväen kanssa tapaaminen Kansallismuseon uuden perusnäyttelyn avajaisissa ja siellä Vapriikin väki kysyi, mistä löytyisi sopivia malleja Birckalan julistekuviin. Tarvittiin "kaunis nuori nainen" ja "komea tumma mies, 178 cm pitkä".<br />
Kas, paikalla oli tuttuja Harmaasusia. Kaunis nainen... no tietenkin Laura. Ja komea mies... Julius!<br />
Julle on kuvissa ihan omissa varusteissaan, mutta Lauralla on Birckalan näyttelyn äidin vaatteet ja Pirkka-pojalla minun tekemäni vaatetus.<br />
Lauralla on itse asiassa tummanvihreä villamekkoni, jota olen käyttänyt viikinkimekkojen aluspukuna. Essun tein harmaasta villasta ja pronssit kieputteli Riku.<br />
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This springs big this was my part of Birckala 1017 -exhibition in Vapriikki museum, Tampere. It´s about life in Tursiannotko one thousand years ago.</div>
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At the end of May the museum contacted me to ask, if I could do some tablet weaving and nalbinding for display. Yes, why not.</div>
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The order suddenly grew: can you dress whole family and a soldier? Can you make clothes for audience to fit?</div>
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Well... it was not my only work and I had NESAT coming and.. ah, ok, I´ll do it.</div>
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I had about five weeks time to make two linen shirts, seven woolen tunics, two pair of woolen trousers, apron with bronze spirals, belts, tablet weaving for display, dye yarns...</div>
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I have said that I will never use sewing machine, but now I had to... No time otherwise. But I used machine only on long seams - every visible stitch and also all finishing stiches inside clothes are hand sewn, by using only plant dyed yarns. The fabrics I used are mostly from Medeltidsmode.</div>
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The leg wraps are not hand woven - they are indeed strips of fabric. But they look ok in museum.</div>
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I also have spun a small yarn sample, and did tablet weaving on film (coming alter to exhibition) and gave museum a permission to use my nalbinding tutorials from my workshops (coming later).<br />
We had a meeting with Vapriikki folks at Nationalmuseums new prehistory exhibition opening and they asked if I would know who could be suitable model for their posters. They need a pretty woman and a handsome man. Oh, I knew just perfect people: Laura and Julius from Greywolves.<br />
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Tilauksen pääosa valmiina lähtemään Vapriikkiin. / The main part of the order ready to display.<br />
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Tilaukseen kuului myös vaatteiden pukeminen näyttelynukkien päälle. Noora painii isännän kimpussa. Noora auttoi myös parin mekon viimeistelyssä.<br />
Part of the order was dressing the mannequins. Here Noora is wrestling with "daddy". Noora also helped with finishing one or two tunics.<br />
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Ei, äiti ei ole jäykkä zombie, vaan valmiina ottamaan Pirkka-pojan vastaan hevosen selästä.<br />
No, "mum" is not a zombie, she is read to take her child from horses back.<br />
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Koska Pirkkalasta ei ole löytynyt lautanauhoja, päätin käyttää yhtä minun ja Maikin suunnittelemaa nauhamallia, jonka kuviot perustuvat suomalaiseen löytöaineistoon. Tapparan väreissä, kuului tamperelaismuseon tilaus.</div>
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Since there are no tablet weaving finds in Pirkkala, I used one of my and Maikki´s designs, based on finnish finds. The colours are after local hockey team Tappara - the museum wanted so.</div>
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Sama sini-oranssi väritys toistuu myös näyttelyyn tekemissäni neulakintaissa. Krappia ja indigoa.</div>
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Same colour code is also in the mittens. Madder and indigo.</div>
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Tilaus käsitti myös 14 eri väriä kasvivärjättyjä lankoja. Laitoin mukaan myös värjäämätöntä jaalanlampaan lankaa, että museokävijät oivaltavat, ettei aina värjätä vain valkoista lankaa.</div>
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Osa langoista on muutes käsinkehrättyä, tosin rukilla. Ja siellähän on myös näytteet Nesatissa julkistetun Kaarinan viitan langoista.</div>
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They also ordered 14 different plant dyed yarns. I added some undeyd jaalasheep yarn to show that the yarn was not always white originally.</div>
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There are also dye samples of the Kaarina shawl we presented in NESAT.</div>
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Some of the yarns are hand spun, done with spinnign wheel, not spindle.</div>
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Samat langat näyttelyssa / My yarns in display.<br />
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Nukkien villamekkojen alla on ihan oikeat rautakautiset pellavapaidat.<br />
Undet the woolen tunics there are proper linen shirts.<br />
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Jokainen päälle näkyvä pisto on tehty käsin, kasvivärjätyillä langoilla.</div>
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Every visible stitch is hand sewn, by using plant dyed wool</div>
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Ja tässä perhe tositoimissa / the family in display</div>
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Tilaus täydentyi tipoittain. Tämän työn kuvaus oli "nätti pussi aarteiden säilyttämiseen". Pietaryrtillä värjättyä villaa, nauhan malli on Maskun Humikkalan haudasta 32.<br />
One small part of the order "a treasure pouch"´. Plant dyed wool fabric with tablet weaving from Masku Humikkala grave 32.<br />
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Kehruunäyte, jaalanlampaan villaa./ Spinning sample, jaalasheep wool<br />
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Riku teki loppumetreillä vielä puulusikoita. Ja jossain päin näyttelyä pitäisi olla minun ikioma kauhani, joka on siis laitattu museolle, mutta ainakaan nyt sitä ei näkynyt, Toivotaan, että se ei ole tarttunut kenenkään museovieraan näppeihin...<br />
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Spoons are made by Riku. I could not find the scoop which is mine, by Riku. I borrowed it for museum because there was no time to make one. I hope no one has taken it...<br />
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Ja sitten hämärä kuva sotkusta. Tämä pistää vihaksi: se on se keskeneräinen lautanauha, joka on osa savupirtin sisustusta. Helkutti, miten se on käpsitty noin solmuun? Käydessämme Nooran kanssa näyttelyssä oli ihan pakko selvitellä sotku ja laittaa kuvio kohdalleen. Saa katsoa ja koskea, mutta ei tuhota!</div>
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And this! It makes me a bit angry: it´s unfinished tablert weaving, part of the interior. And visitors have tangled it to a horrible mess. I just had to go and untangle it. Hey people, you are allowed to touch but NOT destroy!!</div>
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Pirkkalassa eli siellä missä Tursiannotko oikeasti sijaitsee, järjestettiin järjestyksessään toiset muinaismarkkinat. Minut kutsuttiin sinne pitämään luento rautakauden pukeutumisesta.</div>
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Otin mukaan kauheasti kaikenlaista kivaa rekvisiittaa ja yritin puhua 45 minuutissa niin paljon kuin kerkesin. Yritin viestittää että a) jokainen miekkamies oli myös puettu vaatteisiin b) täällä ollaan ylpeästi muinaissuomalaisia, että jätetäänkö jooko sitä viikinkiä vähän vähemmälle, kun puhutaan Suomen rautakaudesta. Ja bonuksena, että muinaispuvun ompeleminen saumurilla on rikos.</div>
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On Pirkkala, where real Tursiannotko is, they had a theme market and I was invited to speak about Finish iron age clothing.</div>
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I took all kinds of things with me to show and tried to speak as much as possible in 45 minutes.</div>
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My agenda as that a) every sword hero was dressed in textiles and b) let´s be proudly from Finnish iron age, not those vikings! Less vikings damn it, we are in Finland! And as a bonus: using serger (overlocking machine) on these dresses is a crime, so hand sew them!</div>
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Näyttää vahvasti siltä, että olen aika hyvin varusteltu!</div>
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It seems that I am well equipped.</div>
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Halusin näyttää markkinaväelle, miltä muinaispuvut näyttävät ja otin mukaan paljon vaatteita ja nauhoja. Onneksi Mari tuli paikalle ja pääsi heti malliksi. Pistin kaikki komeudet kerralla peliin: on Maskun Humikkala 31-nauhaa, Kaukolan hopeasykeröä, käsinkudottu viitta ja Tuukkalan korusto (hups, kiireessä meni vähän vinoon). BLING!</div>
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I wanted to show the audience how Finnish iron age dresses really look so I took plenty of clothes and tablet woven bands to show. I hijacked Mari as a live model. I dressed her to all the fabulous things you can imagine Masku Humikkala 31 -band, silver basket, Tuukkala jewellery set (oops, I was in hurru so it´s a bit wonky). Real BLING!</div>
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Ja voi että oli hauskaa nähdä tämä: siinä oikealla on nimittäin minun vanha muinaispukuni, tosin tuo on selvästikin maalattu siitä kuvasta, jossa puku on Elinan päällä<a href="http://www.neulakko.net/?p=1054" target="_blank"> vuonna 2011 muotinäytöksessä</a>.</div>
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Itse en kerennyt ottaa kuvaa tästä mainiosta tintamareskista, mutta löysin kuvan Terhi Saksan blogista ja julkaisen kuvan hänen luvallaan.</div>
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Oh how funny it was to see this tintamaresque! They had painted my old dress in it - and I even know from which picture is was taken from. It´s the one where Elina was modelling in fashion show wearing my dress in 2011.</div>
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I borrowed this picture from Terhi Saksa:</div>
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Tässä siis kuva tilanteesta, jossa tämä Pinterestissäkin kovin suosittu kuva on otettu kauan sitten:</div>
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And here is a picture from the same photo shoot years ago:</div>
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<br />Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-66787387086598062652017-03-11T16:33:00.000+02:002017-03-14T11:39:43.646+02:00Ravattulan Ristimäki ja haudan 8/2015 nauha / tablet woven band from Ravattula Ristimäki grave 8/2015<br />
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<i>Tässä teille Ravattulan Ristimäen tekstiililöytö: lautanauha haudasta 8, vuoden 2015 kaivauksilta. Ristimäellä haudat numeroidaan vuosittain, joten 8/2015.</i><br />
<i>Here you are: a textile find, tablet woven band, from Ravattula Ristimäki grave 8/2015.</i><br />
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Vierailin viime syksynä Ravattulan Ristimäen arkeologisella kaivauksella ja juttelin arkeologi Juha Ruohosen kanssa, Tekstiilinörtti lautanauhaintoilijan sydän löi ylimääräisen lyönnin.<br />
"No onhan täältä löytynyt tekstiilejä paljonkin", hän sanoi.<br />
"On täällä lautanauhojakin. Pitkiä pätkiä. Osassa on vielä värit ja kuviot näkyvissä".<br />
Kun sydänparka oli asettunut, piti tietysti laittaa Maikille viesti. <b>Ravattulan Ristimäki stop lautanauhoja stop värit ja kuviot näkyvissä stop.</b><br />
Onneksi tiesimme, keneen ottaa yhteyttä: arkeologi Jaana Riikonen on ollut vahvasti mukana sekä kaivamassa että tutkimassa Ristimäen löytöjä.<br />
Saimme kuvia ja mikä parasta, Maikki kävi Turun museokeskuksessa katsomassa nauhoja itse. Hän tutki ne myös mikroskoopilla ja otti runsaasti valokuvia.<br />
Kun Turun yliopistolla järjestettiin seminaari Rautakautta yli rajojen, tarjosimme luentoa aiheesta Lautanauhoja Ravattula Ristimäen tekstiililöydöissä.<br />
Ja kaiken tämän tuloksena on paitsi uusi, tutkittu rautakautinen nauhamalli, myös pieni kudontaan liittyvä löytö tai oikeastaan todiste: <b>epäsymmetrinen lankojen pujotus ja kudonta neljä eteen, neljä taakse.</b><br />
Yleensähän suomalaisissa rautakauden nauhoissa laudassa on aina kaksi tummaa ja kaksi vaaleaa lankaa. Paitsi Ristimäellä.<br />
Lisäksi lautanauhapiireissä on esitetty sellainen teoria, että historiallisissa nauhoissa ei olisi näitä neljä eteen neljä taakse malleja. Se teoria on täten kudottu ja kaiken lisäksi meillä on jo entuudestaan vaikkapa Kaarinan kirkkomaan haudan 40 nauha. Lisäksi virolaisissa löydöissä on useita neljä eteen-neljä taakse kudottuja nauhoja.<br />
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Last autumn I was visiting the Ravattula Ristimäki archeological excavation site. I talked with archeologist Juha Ruohonen. My textile nerd, tablet weaving enthusiast heart hit couple extra beats.<br />
"Yes, there are quite a lot of textile finds too", he said.<br />
"Yes, also tablet woven bands, with colours and patterns still visible."<br />
When by poor heart had settled down, I had to send a message to Maikki. <b>Ravattula Ristimäki stop tablet woven bands stop colours and patterns still visible stop.</b><br />
Luckily we knew who to contact. Textile archeologist Jaana Riikonen has been involved with this site, actually digging there.<br />
We got photos and the best thing, Maikki visited the Turku museum centre and saw the bands, looked them through microscope and took a lot of pictures.<br />
When there was a Finnish iron age seminar day at Turku University, we offered a paper about Tablet woven finds in Ravattula Ristimäki textile finds.<br />
As a result of this we now have a new, researched Finnish iron age tablet woven band pattern. And also a proof about one weaving technical detail. <b>Yes, unsymmetrical threading and weaving four forward, four backward.</b><br />
You see, so far Finnish tablet weaving has been threaded two light and two dark yarns per tablet. But... not in Ristimäki.<br />
Also there are thoughts and theories that in historical finds there are no such woven bands (4F4B). Here in Finland and also in Estonia the finds tell another story. We have also Kaarina cemerety grave 40 with such pattern.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz5CbcKgaZsxgW0ejp5tKmsFlKRFqN1_ey_GqQI9zNZNuPTGmjRl7Zaoq6dBFdiNfSkZCr8Iy_UwKu8ANP8XCs8sspiDUEi0lwIUWJ8PS37I3Fv8DvYh6DXvHw4Y5wDHv1QZcYZGGKXm68/s1600/koko+fragmentti_H8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz5CbcKgaZsxgW0ejp5tKmsFlKRFqN1_ey_GqQI9zNZNuPTGmjRl7Zaoq6dBFdiNfSkZCr8Iy_UwKu8ANP8XCs8sspiDUEi0lwIUWJ8PS37I3Fv8DvYh6DXvHw4Y5wDHv1QZcYZGGKXm68/s640/koko+fragmentti_H8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Tässä koko löytö / here is the whole find</div>
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Huomaa yksityiskohta vasemmalla: nauhaa ei ole katkaistu, vaan sen on taitettu, kun se on ommeltu vaatteeseen. Tällainen samanlainen taite löytyy myös yhdestä Kaarinan Kirkkomaan haudasta.</div>
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Notice the detail on the left: the band was not cut, when it was sewn to textile. This same way of folding can also be seen in one of the Kaarina cemetery graves.</div>
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Nauhasta erottuu runsaasti yksityiskohtia, kuten kahden reunalaudan muodostama tuppilohulpio. Reunimmainen lanka ei ole kokonaan taittunut nauhan alapuolelle kuten käy jos tuppilohulpiossa on kolme tai neljä lautaa.</div>
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There are still several details visible, like tubular selvage woven with two edge tablets. The most edge yarn is not turned to reverse side like it does when there are three of four edge tablets on tubular selvages.<br />
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Esittelimme siis Maikin perusteellisen tutkimuksen Turussa lauantaina 11. maaliskuuta. Tässä on muutama dia koko esityksestämme, niistä selviää miten näitä nauhoja tutkitaan. Itse esitys seminaarissa oli huomattavasti laajempi.<br />
We presenten Maikkis thorough research in Turku today (Saturday 11.3.). Here are some slides from our presentation - (sorry, only in Finnish) - but they show a little bit of how tablet woven bands can be researched. The presentation in seminar was much wider.<br />
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(turning of the tablets creates a relief surface on band, and the changes in turning directions actually show on the band)<br />
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(When changing the turning direction there is a longer yarn float on the band. Maikki identified four identical floats on surface. And they repeat regular)<br />
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(the tubular selvages: on the right side there is one row of edge tablets stitches, the outer edge turns under)<br />
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Ristimäellä on muitakin nauhoja, mutta valitettavasti osa niistä on erittäin huonossa kunnossa ja niiden tutkiminen nauhamalliksi asti saattaa olla mahdotonta. Mutta eipä olla murhemielin, esimerkiksi viime kesän tekstiilipaakuista saattaa löytyä uutta tutkittavaa!<br />
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Ristimäki has more tablet woven bands - but unfortunately some of them seem to be in very poor condition and therefore impossible recreate as weaving pattern. But great news is, that last summers textile finds might include more tablet woven bands - so there might be more news!<br />
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<b>Mutta onneksi tämän voi kutoa!</b><br />
<b>But this one you can weave!</b><br />
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Valmis nauha on huikeat kuusi milliä leveä! Kudonnassa käytin Wetterhofin Veeraa (tex 55x2) - alkuperäisen löydön peruseella näyttää, että valkoinen lanka olisi ollut hieman muita ohuempi. Tässä kaikki ovat siis samaa. Sininen on värjätty oman pihan morsingoilla, punainen krapilla.</div>
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The band is all six millimetres wide! I used Wetterhow Veera (100 g 900 m). The original find seems that the white yarn was a bit thinner than others. Her I used all same thickness. The blue is dyed with woad from my garden and red is madder dyed.</div>
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Pieni ja erittäin sievä! Tiny and pretty!</div>
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Tässä vielä nurja puoli ja tuppiloreuna / Here is the reverse side and the edge with tubular selvage.<br />
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Ja sitten kutomaan! And now you can weave it!<br />
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Mutta sitten:<br />
Jos kerran Ristimäellä on tällainen nauha, niin voisiko sellainen olla muuallakin? Kaukolan Kekomäen neliönauha on ollut vähän arvoitus. Theodore Schwindt piirsi nauhat vuonna 1891. Tuossa neliönauhassa näkyy raidoitusta, joka on tulkittu muun muassa toimikkaaksi. Vaan kun Suomesta ei ole tunnettu tähän päivään mennessä yhtään ns. toimikasnauhaa (3/1 toimikasta). Eikä tunneta vieläkään: Maikki kokeili kutoa neliönauhan sekä toimikkaana että aivan uudella tavalla, eli Ristimäen nauhan tapaan. Nauhassa ei olekaan kahta tummaa ja kahta vaaleaa, vaan epäsymmetrinen laudoitus, aivan kuten Ristimäellä.<br />
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But then:<br />
If there is this Ristimäki band, could similar be in some other places too? One of Kaukola Kekomäki has been a small puzzle: Theodor Schwindt made the drawing at 1891. The diamond pattern shows sniper surface and in some theories it has been interpreted ad twill. But in Finnish table weaving finds so far a clear twill has not yet been found. And seems that it is still so: Maikki tested the cornelian diamonds woven as twill and the Ristimäki way. And it works! Also the threading is unsymmetrical. Just like Ristimäki.<br />
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Alinna: Maikin ensimmäinen versio eli symmetrinen langoitus ja kudonta kolme eteen, kolme taakse. Keskellä uudella tavalla eli epäsymmetrinen langoitus, kudottu neljä kiertoa eteen ja neljä taakse. Ylinnä paksummasta langasta ensin neljä eteen, neljä taakse ja sitten toimikkaana kudottu.<br />
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In this picture; lowest band is the older version, woven 3 forward 3 backward. Then two band in the middle: unsymmetrical threading, woven r forward 4 backward. The top ones are test weaving for 4F 4B and the most top one is woven as twill.<br />
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Tässä on rinnakkain kolme eteen kolme taakse (vasemmalla) ja neljä eteen neljä taakse.<br />
Testing the patterns: on the left 3F3B, on the right 4F4B<br />
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Vasemmalla toimikkaana kudottu, oikealla neljä eteen neljä taakse.<br />
On the left: twill. On the right 4F4B.<br />
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Lisää testailua: kudoin eri paksuisilla ja eri sävyisillä langoilla, sekä eripaksuisilla kudelangoilla. Kyllä, sillä todellakin on väliä: kun kude on loimilankaa ohuempi, myös ruudut ovat selkeämpiä ja terävämpiä<br />
More testing: same pattern, different yarn thicknesses and shades of colours. Also: the middle one had thinner weft than warp. It really makes a difference on shapes of diamonds so YES - weft matters!</div>
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Tässä vielä kerran yli sata vuotta sitten tehty piirros ja Maikin uusi tulkinta. Jaa mitä ovat nuo vinot linjat? Tuolta näyttää, kun langan kierteet aukeavat ja kudelangat katoavat vuosisatojen aikana.<br />
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And here is the drawing, made over 100 years ago and Maikki´s new interpretation. The lines on drawing? They are now twill lines, they are actually the twist on yarn. That happens when yarn twist opens and weft dissolves (that indicates that weft was vegetable fiber).<br />
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Ja sitten taas kutomaan!<br />
And now you can try yourself: here is the pattern<br />
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Pictures of originals: Maikki Karisto<br />
Recreations: Mervi Pasanen<br />
<br />Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-82663558225983285262017-01-24T16:41:00.000+02:002018-06-21T17:20:15.096+03:00Maskun intarsia oli muutakin kuin ompeluprojekti / Making Masku intarsia was not just sewing, it was much more<br />
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<i>Tässä me olemme - kaikki ompelijat ja ruotsalaiset innoittajamme Amica ja Maria oikeassa reunassa. Sekä tietenkin tapahtuman ehdoton tähti, Maskun intarsian uusi kopio. Viime lauantaina tuli täyteen noin vuoden ajan kestänyt projekti.</i><br />
<i>Here we all are - the sewing team and also the swedish inspirators Amica and Maria.</i><br />
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Viime viikon lauantaina juhlimme Kansallismuseossa historiallista tapahtumaa, kun Maskun intarsian uusi kopio paljastettiin. Ensimmäistä kertaa museo avasi oven harrastajille tällä tavalla: saimme tutkia alkuperäistä intarsiaa ja tehdä siitä mahdollisimman tarkan kopion. Mutta kerronpa teille, mitä tapahtui sitä ennen.<br />
Kaikki alkoi noin vuosi sitten, kun Maria Neijman chattasi minun ja Elinan kanssa. Ruotsissa oli juuri valmistumassa kaksi komeaa intarsiatyötä.<br />
"Teillä on siellä Suomessa Maskun alttarivaate. Etsikää se ja tehkää se", yllytti Maria.<br />
"Okei, me sanoimme."<br />
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Last week we celebrated a historical event in National Museum in Helsinkin, when Masku intarsias replica was published. For the first time museum had opened it´s archive doors to amateurs this way: we were allowed to study the original piece and make a copy. But let me tell you what happened before that.<br />
It all started about year ago, when Maria Neijman chatted online with me and Elina.<br />
"You have a intarsia in Finland, the Masku coverlet. Find it and make it", said Maria.<br />
"Okey", we said.<br />
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<i>Tässä siis kuva väärin päin / this picure is printed wrong way, it´s a mirror image</i><br />
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Helmikuun 19. päivä olin käymässä Hannele Köngäksen luona Turussa. Hän kertoi mongolialaisesta intarsitekniikasta ja sanoin, että "siitä tulikin mieleeni eräs Maskun intarsia", josta ei oikein tahtonut löytyä mitään tietoja.<br />
Hannelella oli kirkkotaidetta esittelevä kirja 1960-luvulta ja siellä tämä kuva. Se on painetti kirjaan väärin päin eli peilikuvana, tiedämme nyt.<br />
February 19th I visited Hannele Köngäs in Turku and she was talkign about intarsia rugs made in Mongolia. "That remids me of Masku coverlet" I mentioned. It had been very hard to find information about it. Hannele had a book of finnish church art, printed in 1960´s I think. And in that book there was a picture. It was printed wrong way, we found out, as a mirror image.<br />
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Toisesta kirjasta Hannele löysi tämän mustavalkoisen kuvan ja tällä kertaa intarsia on painettu oikeinpäin.<br />
Lähetin kuvat Elinalle ja muistutin, että mitäs meidän pitikään tehdä. Hannele laittoi myöhemmin tuttavalleen viestin Kansallismuseoon, että tällaista halutaan tehdä. Samaan aikaan Elina soitti museoon ja sai yhteuden osastoon, joka vastaa työpajatoiminnasta. Palaset alkoivat loksahdella paikoilleen.<br />
Well Hannele had another book, black and white, and there the picture is right way.<br />
I send pictures to Elina and reminded what we were supposed to make.. Hannele send later a message to her friend in National Museum that some people want to make this. At the same time Elina contacted another department in museum, the one that deals with audience. So pieces started to go to right places.<br />
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Koska halusimme, että museolla varmasti tiedetään mistä on kyse, matkustin Tukholmaan kuvaamaan sikäläisiä valmiita töitä ja <a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2016/03/lahikuvassa-ruotsin-ennallistuksia.html" target="_blank">kirjoitin niistä blogipostauksen</a>. Se linkitettiin museon viesteihin.<br />
Kului joitakin viikkoja. Eräänä päivänä Elina soitti.<br />
"Se on löytynyt. Me saamme nähdä sen. Me saamme tehdä sen. Museo maksaa materiaalit."<br />
Olin auton ratissa kun Elina soitti (ei, en puhunut kännykkään, vaan olin kaiuttimessa) ja ajoin harhaan koska sekosin ilosta. Vähän itketti onnesta. Ajatus oli huikea: me saamme tehdä museon tekstiilistä kopion!<br />
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Since we wanted the museum to know what we wanted to do, I travelled to Sweden, where they had recently finished two intarsias. I wrote a blogpost about them and we sent the link to museum.<br />
Weeks passed and then Elina called.<br />
"It´s found. We will see it. We will make it. Museum will pay the materials".<br />
I was driving a car at the moment - and tookt he wrong way because I got so happy. I think I felt like crying a bit too.<br />
It was incredible - we would get to make it!<br />
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Kesäkuussa Elina, minä, Maria ja Amica vietimme kuusi tuntia dokumentoimalla tekstiiliä. Kuvasimme sitä muun muassa mikroskoopilla ja saimme ylös valtavasti yksityiskohtaista tietoa tästä upeasta työstä.<br />
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In june Elina, me, Maria and Amica spend six hours by studying and documenting the textile. We took pictures - also with microscope and recorded a lot of detailed information about it.<br />
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<i>Tässä kohtaa harrastusta ollaan jo kuitutasolla!</i></div>
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<i>At this point the hobby is on fible level!</i></div>
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Seuraavaksi alkoi pohdinta: mistä saisimme juuri oikeanlaiset kankaat. Mitä kaikkea tarvitsemme. Mitä värejä työssä on. Ketkä sen ompelevat. Millä aikataululla. Tätä pohdimme pitkin kesää.</div>
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Next we started thinking about the making: where do we get the right quality of fabrics. What fabrics do we need. What colors are needed. Who is going to sew it. What is our schedule.</div>
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This is how the summer went.</div>
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Kankaiden hankkiminen oli oma työnsä, sillä tarvitsimme kahta, kolmea eri laatua palttinaa ja paria kolmea toimikasta, kuten alkuperäisessäkin on. Karkean palttinakankaan kävin ostamassa Katrin Koch-Maasigilta Tallinnasta, osa toimikkaasta on myös häneltä ja Medeltidsmodelta ja pohjakankaan Wilundilta Ruotsista. </div>
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Getting the right kind of fabrics was another job. We needed two different fabrics in palin weave and two to three twills. The coarse hand woven plain weave I colledted from Katrin Koch-Maasing from Tallinn, she also sold me so twill. The there is fabric from Medeltidsmode and Wilund from Sverige.</div>
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Päädyimme kutsumaan mukaan 16 ompelijaa eli kaksi jokaista eläinruutua kohti.</div>
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Elokuussa Elinan blogissa <a href="http://www.neulakko.net/?p=22874" target="_blank">julkaistiin ilmoitus</a>: hae mukaan projektiin. Halukkaita tuli paljon enemmän, kuin mukaan mahtui.</div>
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Jo kesäkuussa ehdotin museolla, että saisimme ottaa alkuperäisestä tekstiilistä näytteitä. Tiesin, että Kristan käyttämillä tutkimusmenetelmillä näytteiksi riittäisi vain muutama kuitu. Krista oli heti mukana ajatuksessa.</div>
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Elokuun aikana kokosimme ompeluryhmän ja 10. syyskuuta oli aika tavata ensimmäisen kerran. Ja nähdä se alkuperäinen.</div>
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We ended inviting 16 person to sew the replica, two for every animal panel. In August Elina published a blogpost "<a href="http://www.neulakko.net/?p=22874" target="_blank">seamstresses wanted"</a> in her Neulakko-blog. We got more volunteers than there was places.</div>
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Already in June I suggested to museum people that they would allow us to take some samples of the textile. I knew that the modern methods that Krista Vajanto uses only need some fibres as samples. Krista was immediatelly willing to take part.</div>
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10th September the sewing team met for the first time. And they also saw the original.</div>
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Krista otti työstä yhteensä 17 kuitunäytettä ja niistä paljastui hämmästyttäviä asioita: nahkasuikaleet ovat hopeoituja, ei kultaa kuten Ruotsissa. Työ on ommeltu silkkilangalla, ei pellavalla, kuten kaikissa lähteissä arvellaan. Ja se hienon hieno pellavakangas, jota riikinkukoissa on... se on puuvillaa, 1400-luvulla äärettömän harvinaista kangasta näillä leveyspiireillä!<br />
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Krista took 17 different samples and they revealed surprisingly amount of information. The leather had silver coating, not gold like swedish intarsias do. The piece is sewn with silk, not with flax (linen) like all the sources say. And the fine plant fible fabric which is on peacocks - it´s not linen, it´s cotton. Very rare and expensiv material here 600 years ago!<br />
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Iso osa omaa projektiani oli kankaiden värjäys. Tummaa sinistä, tummaa vihreää, keltaista, punaista, toista sinistä, toista vihreää ja purppuraa.<br />
Värjäsin pienemmät erät, kuten kukkien punaiset ja purppurat kotona hellalla, mutta isojen kankaiden värjääminen pihalla, syyskuussa ja avotulella olisi ollut turhan jännää. Onneksi ovat Maria ja Amica ja Tukholman Konstfackin värilaboratorio. Maria toimi värjärimestarina sekoittamalla juuri oikeassa suhteessa soodaa, natriumditioniittia, luonnonindogoa ja ammoniakkia. Minä seisoin kaksi päivää ammoniakinkäryssä värjäämässä kankaita. 15-5 minuutin kastoja, lukuisia kertoja, kunnes värit olivat toivotun tummat. Sinisen piti olla lähes mustaa eli siihen tarvittiin yli 20 värjäyskertaa.<br />
Kotimatkalla lentokoneessa käsimatkatavarani oli 10 kiloa märkää villakangasta, josta leijui vieno ammoniakin lemu...<br />
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Part of my work was also to dye all the fabrics. Dark blue, dark green, another blue and green, yellow, red and purple was needed.<br />
Smaller pieces I dyed at home in my kitchen, but dyeing big pieces ourside on open fire in September... too much. Luckily Maria and Amica has access to Konstfack -school in Stockholm and it has fabulous dye studio.<br />
Maria was the dye master mixing the natural indigo, soda, natriumdithionite and ammonium, while I did the dipping. The blue was dyed almos black and that took over 20 dyes - so I spend two days in ammonium steam.<br />
And I flew back home, 10 kilos of moist, slightly ammonium scented wool fabric in my back pack...<br />
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Kun kankaat oli värjätty, alkoi itse työ. Olen töissä painotalossa, joten museo kuvasi kaikki ruudut meille ja niistä painettiin julisteet oikeassa mittakaavassa. Niistä leikattiin kaavat, joiden avulla leikattiin kankaat.<br />
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When fabrics were dyed, it was time to start the actual work. I work in print house, so museum photographed the original and it was printed as real size posters. Those we cut and used as patterns when we cut the fabrics.<br />
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Sitten olikin aika vaihtaa värit päikseen eläinparien kesken ja aloittaa ompelu. Tekstiilikonservaattori Maikki Karisto, yksi ompeluryhmämme jäsen, kävi vartavasten stereomikrooskooppia apunaan käyttäen katsomassa, miten suomalaisen intarsian pistot on tehty. Kävi ilmi, että ompelu poikkeaa ruotsalaisesta. Ruotsissa kankaat on yhdistetty ensin yhdellä pistolla nurjalta ja sitten on ommeltu nahkasuikale päälle oikealta puolelta. Maskun peite onkin ommeltu oikealta puolelta ja koko sauma kerralla. Se on tarkkaa työtä!<br />
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Then it was time to change the pieces in right colours and start sewing. Textile conservator Maikki Karisto visited the original with stereomicroscope and did some research on sewing tehcnique.<br />
She found out that our piece was used in different way than swedish ones. In Sweden they join the pieces form reverse side and sew the leather from the right side on top of seam. Maikki found out that in Finland they has sewn pieces straight from right side - using only one stich so that would both join the pieces and attach the learher strip.<br />
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Aloitimme harsimalla kankaat yhteen. Itse ompelin niin, että purin harsinlangat alta pois sitä mukaa kun ompelin, toiset ompelivat harsinlankojen päältä ja purkivat ne vasta lopuksi.<br />
Isoissa linjoissa ei ollut ongelmia, mutta yksityiskohdissa kyllä.<br />
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We started by basting the pieces together. I was unravelling the basting stiches while I was sewing, some others preferred sewing over basting and unravelling the basting when sewing was all done.<br />
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Ompelemassani yksisarvisessa oli muutama kapea kaitale ja tiukka kurvi, ja pistot venyivät väkisin aika pitkiksi. Harmitti, kunnes katsoin alkuperäisen kuvaa: haa! Täsmälleen samalaiset pitkät pistot samassa paikassa kuin alkuperäisessä työssä!</div>
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On my unicorn piece there was some tricky parts, like very narrow pieces and tight curves. I was ashamed of my long stiches but then I compared it to original and oh, look, they are just the same!</div>
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Pyrimme tekemään mahdollisimman tarkan kopion, joten mitta ja alkuperäisestä työstä tehdyt mittakaavassa olevat julisteet olivat ahkerassa käytössä.<br />
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We aimed to make as exact copy as possible, so measuring was important and done often. We were very pleased to have those 1:1 scale posters.<br />
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Lähikuva uudesta pyllypyörylästä. Näitä on mahtava tehdä!<br />
Close up of unicorns butt spiral. They are fun to make!<br />
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Osa meistä teki sisäosia, osa reunoja. Jälkimmäisille osuivat kirjaimet... niiden leikkaaminen on pikkutarkkaa työtä, aivan kuten ompeleminenkin.</div>
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Some of us sew the animals. some did the outer circles. The latter got also some amount of letters to make. Tiny work!</div>
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<i>Kukkia, tammenterhoja ja kirjaimia.</i><br />
<i>Flowers, acorns, letters.</i><br />
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<i>Pisto pistolta työt etenivät.</i><br />
<i>Stich by stich.</i><br />
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Leikkasimme itse myös nahkasuikaleet: meillä oli kokonainen vuota hopealla päällystettyä nahkaa ja leikkasimme sen 1-3 mm leveiksi siivuiksi. Tarkka käsi ja hyvät työvälineet ovat tämän vaiheen avainsanat.<br />
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We also cut the leather: we had a silver coated hide and we cut it in 1-3 mm wide strips. That work needed good tools and steady hands.<br />
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Välillä kävimme tervehtimässä alkuperäistä tekstiiliä. Joka kerta siitä löytyi jotain uutta, kuten esimerkiksi se, että yksisarvisen kieli onkin purppurainen, ei punainen. Vaihtoon meni!<br />
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We also visited the original - and every time found something new. Like that my unicorns tongue was purple, not red. Changed it.<br />
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Vähän kerrassaan palat valmistuivat. Me ompelijat jaoimme kokemuksiamme ja jopa yölliset painajaisunemme, joita intarsia aiheutti.<br />
Kun osalla loppui käytettävissä oleva aika, toiset tulivat apuun. Sain tehdä esimerkiksi sinisen aarnikotkan rukoustekstin kirjaimet.<br />
Siinä pitäisi lukea Ave Maria gracia plena dominus tecum .. alkuperäisen tekijä ei ihan osannut lukea, koska kirjaimet ovat muun muassa väärinpäin.<br />
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Bit by bit all pieces were finished. We shared our experiences and even nightmares the intarsdia caused.<br />
When some people run out of time, others helped. I was allowed to make letters to blue griffin. it should say Ave Maria gracia plena dominus tecum, but the one who made the original apparently did not how to read. The letters are for example wrong way.<br />
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Lopulta 17. joulukuuta valmiit osat kohtasivat toisensa ja ne ommeltiin yhteen. Aloitimme myös valmiiden eläinpaneelien kiinnittämisen toisiinsa.<br />
Lopuksi keräsin palat omaan kassiini ja toin ne kotiin. Arvaatteko, että tuntuu aika hienolta nähdä tällainen kasa omassa keittiössä!<br />
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Finally: 17th December we had last sewing meeting and animal panels were joined to outer circles. At the end of the day I collected them and took them home with me.<br />
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Jouluna pidimme pienemmät ompelutalkoot ja kokosimme kaikki paneelit yhdeksi suureksi työksi. Moni, jolla ei ollut mahdollisuutta ja aikaa osallistua koko projektiin, halusi ommella edes vähän tätä historiallista työtä. Saara kävi joulureissullaan ompelemassa peuralle tammenterhon.<br />
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At Chrismas day we hel a small sewing meeting and joined all the panels together. Many people who could not be in team still wanted to make atleast some stiches to Masku coverler. Like Saara, who stopped by to make one acorn.<br />
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Myös maisteri itse eli arkeologi Ilari Aalto oli joulutalkoissa - ja pisti pari pistoa hänkin.<br />
We also had the famous archeology Ilari Aalto, who also got his stiches to the work.<br />
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Elina ja palojen yhdistämisen zen. Mikä ihana tapa viettää joulua!<br />
Elina and the Zen or panel joining. What a lovely way to spend Christmas day!<br />
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Kun palat olivat kiinni toisissaan, oli aika avata ja levittää koko työ. Hopean kimallus täytti hämärän huoneen - se on uskomattoman upea! Voi vain kuvitella, miltä hopeinen työ on näyttänyt kynttilänvalossa, hämärässä kirkkosalissa 600 vuotta sitten.<br />
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When all pieces were sewn together, it was time to spread the whole piece. The shine of the silver filled the room - it´s incredible! One can only imagine how it looked like in candle light 600 years ago in the darkness of a medieval church.<br />
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Työ kävi myös valokuvastudiossa, jossa käänsin sen myös nurin päin - alkuperäisen työn nurjasta puolesta näkyy vain vähän, mutta se näyttää erittäin paljon tältä.<br />
Textile visited also a photo studio, and I turned the reverse side in pictures too. The originals reverse side is visible only in one corner, but this is how it looks too.<br />
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Lopulta oli aika juhlia ja päästää yleisö osaksi kokemustamme.<br />
Finally it was time to celebrate and let the audience to be part of our experience!<br />
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These two photos: Mikko Pulla<br />
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<b>Kiitokset Kansallismuseolle siitä, että saimme tehdä tämän.</b><br />
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<b>Kiitos ompeluryhmälle siitä, että teitte meidän ideamme todeksi: Laura, Elina, Umu, Jiri, Katri, Beata, Maikki, Tea, Mari, Kristiina, Satu-Kirsi, Maija-Leena, Hanna, Annika - ja Elina. </b><br />
<b>Tämä oli niin paljon enemmän kuin vain älytön ompeluprojekti. </b><br />
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<b>Kristalle innosta lähteä mukaan. Yleisölle kiitos siitä, kun otitte tämän niin hyvin vastaan. Ja Elinalle kiitos uskomattoman tehokkaasta projektijohtamisesta!</b><br />
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<b>Ja tietenkin Maria and Amica: kiitos jakamastanne tuesta ja ideasta!</b><br />
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<b>My thanks goes to National Museum for letting us do this. To sewing team for making our idea to come true. To Krista for her enthusiasm to be in this. To the audience for being interested. And for Elina for being stunnign project leader.</b><br />
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<b>And of course Maria and Amica for your great support and original idea.</b><br />
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Lisää luettavaa <a href="http://madderandcathair.blogspot.fi/2017/01/tehtiin-sitten-intarsia-so-we-made.html" target="_blank">Hannan blogissa</a><br />
And more to read from <a href="http://madderandcathair.blogspot.fi/2017/01/tehtiin-sitten-intarsia-so-we-made.html" target="_blank">HERE</a><br />
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Mitäs sitten tehtäisiin?<br />
What should we do next?Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-54200716289361769172017-01-03T15:26:00.000+02:002017-01-03T15:43:32.650+02:00Spiraaleja ja kulkusia / Spirals and Bells<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="text-align: left;">Here we are!</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Huomaat varmaan, että takana on kolme kuukautta aivan mieletöntä menoa. Töissä on ollut aika raskas syksy, oma mieli on ollut vähän maissa ja sitten ei olekaan ollut enää voimia kirjoittaa tänne. Mutta... olen tehnyt älyttämästi asioita! Tässä aluksi seminaarikuulumiset.</span></div>
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As you can see, the end of the year was extremely busy. Daily work has been very demanding, and I have felt somehow tired, so there was no more energy for blogging. But I have made a lot of things! Let me start from the symposium.</div>
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Koko syksyn valmistelin suurta rautakauden tekstiiliseminaaria, jonka pidimme Liedossa syyskuun lopulla. Sitä varten tein muun muassa uusia vaatteita - pari essuakin.</div>
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Seminaari oli enemmän kuin osasimme odottaa. Kansainvälisiä luentoja meitä innostavasta aiheesta, työpajoja, ihmisiä, keskusteluja ja uutta innostusta ei vain Suomen, vaan koko Itämeren rantojen tekstiilikulttuuriin.</div>
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Oli kivaa tehdä tämä.</div>
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The whole autumn I prepared the textile symposium, Spirals and Bells from the Coasts of Baltic Sea. it was held in Lieto. I made even some new clothes for the weekend - mainly aprons.</div>
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Symposium was more I dared to expect. International speakers and guests, workshops, people, discussions and new exitement about the matter we all love.</div>
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It was a pleasure to make it.</div>
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ja tässä sitten Rikun kanssa / and here with Riku. k. Elina Helkala<br />
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Netistä löytyy muutamia kirjoituksia seminaarista:<br />
Tarja Suomiselta <a href="http://tarjasuominen.wixsite.com/portfolio/single-post/2016/11/04/Osallistuin-Spiraaleja-ja-kulkusia-It%C3%A4meren-rannoilta---seminaariin" target="_blank">Täältä</a>, ja sitten Hanna Aallolta<a href="http://birdpaintings.net/handmade/spiraaleja-ja-kulkusia-itameren-rannoiltaspirals-and-bells-from-shores-of-baltic-sea" target="_blank"> lisää</a>. Radiofiskaris teki Kristan luennolta<br />
<a href="http://www.radiofiskars.fi/2016/11/krista-vajanto-vareista-ja-varjaamisesta-rautakaudella/" target="_blank">radiolähetyksen</a>. Ja Hanna Lehmuston mainio blogi löytyy <a href="http://madderandcathair.blogspot.fi/2016/11/spiraaleja-saarisiteita-ja-seminaaria.html" target="_blank">täältä</a>.<br />
Turun Sanomat vilautti seminaarissa esiteltyä <a href="http://www.ts.fi/lukemisto/2978726/Miehen+muinaispuvussa+helisevat+kulkuset" target="_blank">miehenpukua</a>.<br />
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In those links you can find some finnish writings from the symposium.<br />
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Seminaarin "pisin matka" palkinto menee Dianelle, joka tuli ihan Amerikasta saakka Suomeen kuulemaan kulkusista ja spiraaleista. Hän vietti täällä viikon. Sinä aikana vein hänet Heinolaan katsomaan muinaispukukokoelmaa, teimme vähän rautakausikässää ja lopulta Turun suunnalla vein hänet Maskuun katsomaan muinaista hautapaikkaa. Lopuksi menimme vielä Ristimäelle, jossa parhaillaan avattiin rikasta tekstiilihautaa. Osuimme paikalle kun yksi spiraalikoristeisista esiliinoista nostettiin ylös.<a href="https://aethelmearcgazette.com/2016/12/21/not-ready-duchess-siobhan-visits-a-medieval-textile-dig-in-finland/" target="_blank"> Diane kirjoitti siitä. Lue!</a><br />
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And then this: the "longest travel" award goes to Diane Hellström, who came from USA. She spend one whole week in Finland before seminar and we arranged some program for her. I took her to Heinola to see the collection of finnish ancient dresses. Then we did some textile crafting at my house and finally it was time to move to Turku region for seminar weekend.<br />
I took her to Masku, to see ancient burial site and then to Ravattula Ristimäki excavations. We were there same moment when they were digging a remarkable textile grave and actually taking up an apron with spiral decorations.<br />
Here you can read <a href="https://aethelmearcgazette.com/2016/12/21/not-ready-duchess-siobhan-visits-a-medieval-textile-dig-in-finland/" target="_blank">how she felt it.</a> Yes. Tears.<br />
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On minulla muutakin rautakausiasiaa: Heinolan Kalevalaiset naiset pyysivät, että liittyisin yhdistykseen ja ottaisin vastuulleni yhdessä Orvokki Rosbergin kanssa Heinolan muinaispukukokoelman. Vastasin myöntävästi. Tästä joskus lisää!</div>
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Joulukorttirahat lahjoitimme Ravattulan Ristimäen kaivausten tukemiseen. En tiedä mikä olisi Suomen 100-vuotisen itsenäisyyden juhlavuonna tärkeämpää, kuin saada kaivaukset jatkumaan - ja myös löydöt tutkittua.</div>
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Vuoden suru-uutinen tuli, kun arkeologi, konservaattori Leena Tomanterä menehtyi yllättäen. Hänen kuolemansa oli <a href="http://www.hs.fi/muistot/art-2000005025167.html" target="_blank">suuri menetys</a>. </div>
Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-46239821297607390732016-09-30T12:01:00.000+03:002016-09-30T16:18:56.292+03:00New research on Hallstatt 3 tablet woven band (HallTex152) <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Hallstatt 3, or HallTex 152. Original. Photo: Mervi Pasanen</i></div>
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<i>New interpretation by Maikki Karisto 2015. Woven & photo: Mervi Pasanen</i></div>
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Two and half year ago we were in <a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2014/06/nesat-xii-hallstatt-i-was-in-heaven.html" target="_blank">Nesat XII seminar in Hallstatt,</a> Austria with Maikki Karisto. We visited the salt mines, where the famous Hallstatt-bands were found. We also saw one of the originals. The HallTex 152, also known as Hallstatt 3, was there. It´s normally in Natural History Museum in Vienna, but for the textile archeology symposium it was brought to Hallstatt village.<br />
It is small, and quite dark, but surprisingly well preserved, thanks to the salt. The light and dark colours are still visible.<br />
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Kaksi ja puoli vuotta sitten olimme Maikki Kariston kanssa Itävallan <a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2014/06/nesat-xii-hallstatt-i-was-in-heaven.html" target="_blank">Hallstattissa Nesat XII-</a>seminaarissa. Vierailimme suolakaivoksissa, joista tunnetut Hallstattin lautanauhat ovat löytyneet. Näimme myös yhden alkuperäisistä nauhoista, numero 3:na tunnetun nauhan HallTex 152. Nauhaa säilytetään Wienin luonnonhistoriallisessa museossa, mutta seminaarin ajaksi se oli tuotu Hallstattin museoon. Nauha on hyvin pieni, melko tumma, mutta ikäisekseen hämmästyttävän hyvin säilynyt. Nauhassa erottuu edelleen tummia ja vaaleita lankoja.<br />
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Photo: Mervi Pasanen<br />
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I took a picture with my iPhone and enlarged it to show Maikki. Immediately she said that there is something that needs to be researched.<br />
She took more photos, and looked them on computer screen. Yes, there was something that the <a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2014/04/matkalla-hallstattiin-on-our-way-to.html" target="_blank">researchers befor</a>e her had not noticed.<br />
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Otin älypuhelimella siitä kuvia museossa ja suurensin näytöllä kuvan. Näytin sen Maikille, joka sanoi heti, että nauhassa on asioita, joita pitää tutkia.<br />
Hän otti lisää kuvia, ja katsoi niitä tietokoneen ruudulla. Kyllä, suurennetuissa kuvissa näkyi yksityiskohtia, joita <a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2014/04/matkalla-hallstattiin-on-our-way-to.html" target="_blank">aikaisemmissa tulkinnoissa</a> ei ole ollut.<br />
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Being Maikki - she started her research. She wove several different versions and send them to Karina Grömer, the archeologist who has done a large number of Hallstatt research.<br />
She was exited about Maikki´s work, and send Maikki pictures of the original band, also the reverse side.<br />
Maikki did more test weaving and worked on every detail she found. Result is this: HallTex 152, new research. The publication of it had to wait because Maikki and Karina wanted to publish it in proper place. But finally it is time to show this!<br />
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The research is published today (30th September) at EXAR (<a href="http://www.exar.org/voorbeeld-pagina/conference-2012/" target="_blank">Experimental archeology seminar</a>) in Mistelbach, Austria.<br />
Today I have the honour of giving you the pattern - with permission of Maikki Karisto and Karina Grömer. The whole reseach will be published in EXAR-publication, hopefully at the end of the year.<br />
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Maikki alkoi tutkia nauhaa. Hän kutoi useita testiversioita ja lähetti sitten ne Karina Grömerille, joka on tutkinut Hallstattin tekstiilejä paljon. Grömer innostui valtavasti Maikin työstä ja lähetti jopa lisää valokuvia, myös nauhan nurjalta puolelta.<br />
Maikki teki lisää koeversioita ja tutki yksityiskohtia. Tulokset ovat nyt tässä, uusi tulkinta HallTex 152 -nauhasta.<br />
Julkistuksen kanssa on pitänyt odottaa pitkään, koska Maikki ja Karina halusivat julkistaa tulokset teemaan sopivassa tieteellisessä seminaarissa.<br />
Tänään 30.9. nauha esitellään kokeellisen arkeologian seminaarissa EXAR:ssa Mistelbachissa Itävallassa.<br />
Minulla on kunnia antaa ohje teille - tekijöiden luvalla. Koko Maikin ja Karinan tutkimus julkistetaan englanniksi EXAR-julkaisussa, toivottavasti jo tämän vuoden lopulla.<br />
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Photo: Mervi Pasanen<br />
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Original fragment was found in Hallstatt salt mines, in Austria. The dating of the band is 800-400 bc.<br />
It is 1,4 cm wide, it is woven with thin plied woolen yarns, colours in yellow, green and brown. The pattern ins created with 10 tablet, two yarns per tablet (pebble weave).<br />
On the edges there are four four-threaded tablets, one on the other side and three on the other side.<br />
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Alkuperäinen fragmentti on löytynyt Hallstattin suolakaivoksista nykyisen Itävallan alueelta. Nauhan ajoitus on 800-400 ennen ajanlaskun alkua. Se on 1,4 senttimetriä leveä, ja kudottu ohuista kerratuista langoista, väreinä keltainen, vihreä ja ruskea. Kuvio kudotaan kymmenellä laudalla, joissa on kaksi lankaa laudassa.<br />
Reunoissa on yhteensä neljä reunalautaa, neljä lankaa laudassa. Lautoja on toisella reunalla yksi, toisella kolme.<br />
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Photo & weaving: Mervi Pasanen<br />
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Maikki noticed for example, that the band is not symmetrical in the middle. The small corners also are not all same size.<br />
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Maikki huomasi muun muassa, että nauhan kuvio ei ole symmetrinen. Myöskään pienet kulmat nauhassa eivät ole kaikki samankokoisia.<br />
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<b>Muutamia aikaisempia versioita:</b><br />
<b>Some early versions:</b><br />
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<i>First version (Karina Grömer) of the band was woven with four yarns per tablet. Photo and weaving: Mervi Pasanen</i></div>
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<i>Kun nauha alunperin tutkittiin, sen ensimmäisessä versiossa oli neljä lankaa laudassa. </i></div>
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<i> Second version (Sylvia Crumbach) has two yarns per tablet. Photo & weaving: Mervi Pasanen</i></div>
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<i>Seuraavassa versiossa on jo kaksi lankaa per kuviolauta.</i></div>
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<i>I wove several test versions and this was fun one: look at the yellow yarn on the edge. It is not woven with tablet, but with weft. It was first thought that there was a loose yarn on the bans, but actually it is a single yarn from the textile the original band was attached. Photo & weaving: Mervi Pasanen</i><br />
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<i>Kudoin useita koeversioita ja tämä oli aika hauska: katso keltaista lankaa toisessa reunassa. Se ei kudottaessa ollut lainkaan laudoissa, vaan irrallisena lankana. Liitin sen nauhaan kuteen avulla. Jossain vaiheessa on ajateltu, että tuo lanka olisi kudottu nauhaan, mutta todellisuudessa se on peräisin vaatteesta, johon alkuperäinen nauha on kiinnitetty.</i><br />
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<b>Read more about Hallstatt finds:</b><br />
<b>Lisätietoja Hallstattin löydöistä:</b><br />
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Bichler, Grömer, Hofmann-de Keijzer, Kern, Reschreiter 2005. Hallstatt Textiles. Technical Analysis,
Scientific Investigation and Experiment on Iron Age Textiles. BAR International Series 1351. 2005: 83 – 85.<br />
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Bunte Tuche & gleissendes Metall. Frühe Kelten der Hallstattzeit. Herausgegeben vom Keltenmuseum
Heuneburg. 2007: 78.<br />
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Grömer, Kern, Reschreiter, Rösel-Mautendorfer 2013. Textiles from Hallstatt. Weaving Culture in Bronze
Age and Iron Age Salt Mines. Archaeolingua, Volume 29. Natural History Museum Vienna. 2013: 483.Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-86459621067487935532016-09-13T12:56:00.000+03:002016-09-13T14:15:57.410+03:00Täällä tehdään historiaa / We are re-making history<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Tässä me olemme. Maskun peitteen tekijät, kahta lukuunottamatta.</i></div>
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<i>Here we are, the makers of Masku coverlet, all except two.</i></div>
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Ensin niitä<a href="https://historicaltextiles.org/2016/03/26/att-aterskapa-tva-guldskinnstacken-to-recreate-two-inlaid-woolen-coverlets/" target="_blank"> tehtiin Ruotsissa,</a></div>
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First they <a href="https://historicaltextiles.org/2016/03/26/att-aterskapa-tva-guldskinnstacken-to-recreate-two-inlaid-woolen-coverlets/" target="_blank">were made in Sweden.</a></div>
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Sitten Maria ja Amica sanoivat Elinalle ja minulle, että "etsikääs se Maskun peite ja ennallistakaa se".</div>
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Then Maria and Amica told Elina and me that "you must find the Masku coverlet and recreate it".</div>
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Eihän siinä muu auttanut. Kuulostaa helpolta, mutta oikeasti tätä hetkeä edelsi useita yhteydenottoja noin vuoden ajan, mutta tässä ollaan nyt. Peite paikallistettu, Nähty, tutkittu, kuvattu. 16 ompelijaa valmiina työhön. Yleisö pääsee seuraamaan työtämme, niin sosiaalisessa mediassa kuin ihan paikan päälläkin. Ensimmäinen yleisölle avoin ompelupäivä on 16. lokakuuta.</div>
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Ei liene tarpeen kertoa, että olemme erittäin innostuneita tästä työstä!</div>
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Well, so we did. Sounds easy, but actually it took about one year and several contacts to Nationalmuseum, but here we are now. Coverlet located. Seen it. Reseached it. Documented it. 16 eager seamstresses ready to work. And the audience can come and look what we do, also in social media but in museum too.</div>
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I guess there is no need to tell how exited we are about this project!</div>
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Kansallismuseon tornissa sanotaan, että historia on täällä. Nyt siihen voi vaihtaa tekstin "Historiaa tehdään täällä".</div>
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The Nationalmuseum can now change that text to "History is made here"</div>
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Kuvia, ajatuksenvaihtoa, muistiinpanoja.</div>
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Pictures, changing thoughts, making notes.</div>
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..ja kaiken huipentumana kuitunäytteet värianalyysia varten!</div>
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--- and top of everything the fibre samples to dye analysis!</div>
Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-61602854991081633232016-07-11T13:40:00.001+03:002016-07-12T11:11:25.022+03:00Epätodellistä elämää / living beyond reality - anno domini 1406<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Ihana Lady Malina ja tultasyöksevä lohikäärme 25-vuotisjuhlien päättäjäisissä.</i><br />
<i>Wonderful Lady Malina and fire-breathing dragon at the 25-year celebration.</i><br />
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Joskus arki tuntuu raskaalta ja harmaalta. Mutta onneksi olen löytänyt lääkkeen, joka toimii kaikenlaista ankeutta ja harmautta vastaan!<br />
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Lääke on kaksiosainen; siihen tarvitaan hyviä ihmisiä ja mahtavat puitteet. Tarkoitan nyt elämääni Iloisen Joutsenen kanssa ja paikka on tietenkin Middelaldercentret, Nyköping Falster, Tanska eli keskiaikainen kaupunki nimeltä Sundköbing.<br />
Olen ollut siellä kolmena kesänä ja tänä kesänä jo kaksi kertaa. Ensin kesäkuun puolivälissä koko Iloisen Joutsenen parven kanssa ja sitten kymmenen päivän kotona vietetyn ompelujakson päälle Middelaldercentretin 25-vuotisjuhlassa. Joka oli muutes aivan mieletön!<br />
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Sometimes life feels hard and grey. I have found a cure for such days!</div>
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The medicin has two parts. It´s a combination of great people and lovely surrounding. I mean my life with Merry Swans and the place I´m talking abotu if of course Middelaldercentret in Nyköping Falster, Denmark and it´s medieval town Sundköbing.</div>
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This summer I have been there already twice, this is my third year there. First we spend a week with Merry Swans and then ten days later we returned to Middelaldercentrets 25-year celebration. Which was awesome!</div>
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Minulta kysyttiin siellä (osana erästä tohtorinväitöstyötä) miksi Sundköbingin kaltainen paikka on niin tärkeä - sekä yleisölle, että keskiajan elävöittäjälle. Tähän oli helppo vastata: koska siellä keskiajasta kiinnostuneet voivat elää varsin autenttista elämää, oikeissa taloissa ja oikeita töitä tehden. Vaikka emme mielen tasolla voi koskaan olla "keskiaikaisia" ihmisiä, voimme saada aavistuksen ajan elämänmenosta.<br />
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A french researcher interviewed me to his PhD research and asked, why a place like Sundköbing is so important - both for danish volunteers and foreign reenactors. It was easy to answer. Because there we can get s glimpse of medieval people´s everyday life. By living in authentic houses doing the work they would have done. Even we mentally can never become "medieval"people, we can still try to live like they did.<br />
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Yleisölle paikan korkea taso ja siellä elämisestä innostuneet ihmiset, niin vapaaehtoiset kuin elävöittäjätkin, näyttävät kävijöille jotain muuta kuin television keskiaikafantasiaa. Kävijät voivat katsoa, kysyä ja kuulla keskiajan elämästä.<br />
En ihan äkkiä keksi muuta paikkaa, missä saisin tehdä omassa kodissani ruokaa avotulella, kutoa kangasta vanhoilla kangaspuilla (no, itse asiassa voin tehdä sitä kotonani Lahdessa) ja kehrätä isolla kehräpyörällä. Täällä saan.<br />
Elän epätodellisen ihanaa elämää siellä. Kaukana arjestani, kaukana työstä ja laskujenmaksusta. Ikävöin koiriani - jos ne olisivat mukana, en ehkä enää palaisi kotiin!<br />
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For public the extremely high standards and people living in there show something completely else than movies and television, which are mainly medieval fantasy. Here the visitors can look, ask and hear about true medieval life.<br />
It´s really hard to name another place where I could live in such houses and cook there on open fire. Where I can weave with old loom (well, at home I actually can do that) and spin with spinning wheel called big wheel. Here I can.<br />
I´m living unreal life there - something that we normally can only dream about. No everyday worries, no day job, no paying bills. I miss my dogs horribly when I´m there. If I had them with me, I maybe would not come back at all..<br />
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Monesti kerromme kävijöille tarinan siitä, keitä olemme ja miksi olemme siellä. Puuseppä ja hänen vaimonsa, matkalla Suomesta Saksaan, veistämään pyhimyspatsaita linnan kappeliin.<br />
Tänä vuonna tarina sai uuden käänteen.<br />
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Often we tell the audience the story who we are and what we do there. We are a carpenter and his wife, on their way to Germany to a castle to carve a saint statue to castle chapel. This year our story changed.<br />
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<i>Tässä se kerrotaan ihan käsin kirjoitettuna: meidät on hyväksytty asukkaiksi, saimme luvan käydä kauppaa ja maksaa veroja Sundköbingissä. Aivan mahtava juttu!</i><br />
<i>Here it is in writing: we are now accepted to live in Sundköbing and do trade there and also pay taxes (a lot!!).</i><br />
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Me voimme jatkossa olla suomalainen käsityöläispariskunta, joka on saanut oikeuden muuttaa kaupunkin, tehdä siellä kauppaa ja maksaa veroja. Tällaisen kirjeen kaupungin kirjuri Jorge juhlallisesti luovutti meille.<br />
Jorge ja Ana ovat portugalilaispariskunta, jotka ovat olleet kaupungissa töissä useamman kuukauden kerralaan ja lopulta muuttivat Tanskaan. Seurasin heidän blogiaan ja sitä kautta ystävystyimme virtuaalisesti.<br />
Nyt 25-vuotisjuhlissa vihdoin tapasimme oikeasti.<br />
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So from now on we are a crafting couple, who were allowed to move to town, trade there and yes, pay taxes too. This is what a handwritten letter says. The letter was delivered to us by lovely scribe Jorge.<br />
Jorge and Ana are from Portugal. Earlier years they have been in Sundköbing as long as three months - and finally they moved to Denmark and spend a lot of time in Sundköbing. I have followed their blog and we became virtual friends. Now we finally met in real life, at 25-party. It was a great pleasure!<br />
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<i>Last evening at 25-party with Jorge and Ana. Two trebuchets are loaded and soon it´s time to shoot with some fire balls!</i><br />
<i>Viimeinen ilta 25-vuotiskemuissa - kohta ammutaan heittokoneilla tulipalloja</i>!<br />
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<i>25-vuotisjuhlissa asuimme Maria ja Thomas Neijmanin perheen ja Saaran kanssa tukkukauppiaan talossa. Ja oli hurjan kivaa!</i><br />
<i>During the 25- party we lived in Grocköpmanneshus with family Neijman and Saara. We had excellent time with this fabulous household!</i><br />
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Muiskauttelua värjärin talossa.<br />
Secret kiss in dyers house.<br />
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25-vuotisjuhlapotretti satamassa. Minulla oli Turun mekko pyhävaatteena.<br />
Sunday best at 25-celebration. I had my masterpiece, the dress from medieval Turku with me.<br />
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Se mielialalääkkeen toinen osa on ystävät. Tässä tapauksessa Iloinen Joutsen.<br />
Meiltä kysyttiin, että ollaanko samaa perhettä tai sukua, koska olemme niin harmoninen porukka. Ei, olemme hyviä kavereita ja ajattelemme asioista samalla tavalla.<br />
Usein ajattelen, miten onnekas olen, kun ympärilläni ovat nämä ihmiset.<br />
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Second part of my good mood medication is Merry Swan.<br />
They asked us if we are family or relatives, cause we is so harmony group. No, we are just good friends who think alike.<br />
I often think that I am truly lucky for having these people around me.<br />
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Taisimme hieman riehaantua... tuloksena olivat nämä keskiaikaiset poliisin tunnistekuvat:<br />
Opps...we got carried away... the result were these medieval mugshots:<br />
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<i>Laitoimme myös itsemme vankilaan. Ei ollut ihan helppo temppu ahtaa yhdeksää henkeä koppiin, saati saada kahdeksan mahtumaan yhtä aikaa oviaukkoon!</i><br />
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<i>So we had to go to jail... It was not at all easy to have 9 grown up people in that box - and eight of them in same door opening!</i><br />
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Lopuksi vielä virallinen matkapotretti trebuchetin eli heittokoneen äärellä.</div>
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Finally: the official portrait by the trebuchet.</div>
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<b>ps. We will be back!</b>Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-39607968728863496872016-06-08T10:52:00.000+03:002016-06-08T10:52:48.003+03:00Ja sitten vielä huppu mallia Herjolfsnes / and a hood with Herjolfsnes pattern<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Kun kudoin Riku<a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2016/06/bockstenin-miehen-innoittamana-inspired.html" target="_blank"> tilaamaa kangasta, </a>niin loimesta riitti vielä tällaiseksi hupuksi. Kude ja loimi ovat molemmat luonnonruskeita, ja sitten on vähän kasvivärjättyä raitaa lisäksi. Raidat kudoin, koska olin tuohon aikaan juuri hehkuttanut <a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2015/12/aarreaitta-tarton-keskiaikaiset.html" target="_blank">Tarton keskiaikaisia tekstiililöytöjä</a>, ja siellähän sitä raitaa oli valtavat määrät.</div>
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While I was <a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2016/06/bockstenin-miehen-innoittamana-inspired.html" target="_blank">weaving fabric for Riku,</a> there was some extra warp, so I wove this striped fabric too. I made it as a hood fabric. Both warp and weft are natural brown and then I have some natural dyed yarns on stripes.</div>
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I was exited about stripes after seeing the <a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2015/12/aarreaitta-tarton-keskiaikaiset.html" target="_blank">Tartu medieval textile finds </a>so I had to make one.</div>
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Käytin hupussa tuttua Herjolfsnes-kaavaa. Rikulla on entuudestaan pieni huppu tällä kaavalla ja hön pitää siitä kovin.</div>
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The hood pattern is good old Herjolfsnes. Riku has already his small green hood with this pattern and he really likes it.</div>
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Tässä huppu takaa: raidat asettuvat aika hauskasti tuolta selkäpuolella.<br />
This is how it looks from the back - the stipes set quite exiting way.<br />
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Raidat täsmäävät, värit eivät.<br />
Stripes match, the colours don´t.<br />
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Etuosassa kiilan raidat tekevät niinikään kuvion.<br />
The front gore´s stripes make a pattern too.<br />
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Ja lopuksi poseeraukset uuden Bockstenin miehen mekon kanssa.<br />
And this is how it looks worn with hsi new Bocksen inspided tunic.<br />
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<br />Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-77390772773929122002016-06-07T12:30:00.000+03:002016-06-08T20:58:59.276+03:00Bockstenin miehen innoittamana / inspired by Bocksten man<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Riku harvoin haluaa mitään uusia vaatteita, mutta viime vuoden lopulla hän kysyi, voisinko tehdä hänellekin käsinkudotun vaatteen. Itsellä on jo se <a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2015/08/oranssi-mekko-toinen-otos-orange-dress.html" target="_blank">krappimekko</a> ja sitten meillä on pari huppua.<br />
Jos Riku pyytää niin tottakai!<br />
Vaate valmistui eilen. Ja siitä tulikin aika kiva. Tein 1300-luvun puusepälle sopivan työvaatteen aika tunnetun löydön eli Bockstenin suolöydön innoittamana.<br />
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Riku seldom wants any new clothes, but at the end of the last year he asked if I coudl weave something for him too. I have my <a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2015/08/oranssi-mekko-toinen-otos-orange-dress.html" target="_blank">hand woven madder dress</a> and we have some handwoven hoods too. So if Riku asks, he surely gets it!<br />
Tunic was finished yesterday. It turned out quite nice. I made a tunic, suitable for working for 14th century carpenter. It is inspired by Bocksten man, the rather famous bog find.<br />
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<i>Tässä siis internetistä imuroitu kuva alkuperäisestä vaatteesta.</i><br />
<i>This the original dress. </i><br />
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Minulla oli mielessä myös tämä ihana punainen vaate, jonka kankaan Maria Neijman kutoi Tukholman Historiska Museetin Visbyn taistelua esittelevään näyttelyyn (Massakern vid muren, Battle of Wisby 1361)<br />
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I also had in mind this lovely red dress, which is woven by Maria Neijman for Stockholm Historiska Museet´s exhibition about Battle of Wisby in 1361.<br />
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Viime syksynä kehräsin myös paljon ja sitä tein muun muassa Turun Linnan ritaripäivillä, jossa olimme Iloisen Joutsenen kanssa. Olimme linnan työläisinä ja kehrääminen oli oikein hyvää työtä.<br />
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Last year I also spun a lot, for example in Turku Castle event where we Merry Swans were. We presented as working people of the castle.<br />
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<i>Työväki ryhmäkuvassa / castle workers in group photo</i><br />
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Kampasin ja kehräsin paitsi linnalla, myös kotona pitkän sairauslomani aikana<br />
I did a lot of spinning in the castle and at home during my long sick leave..<br />
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Värttinällä oli monenlaista ja monen rotuista villaa.<br />
I had several different wool types.<br />
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Tästä tuli sitten mieleen, että hei se Rikun kangas...mitäs jos tekisi ihan perusteellisesti.<br />
This made me thinking about Riku´s fabric order. Maybe I should make him a proper hand made fabric.<br />
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Loimilanka on yksisäikeinen tummanruskea Fårö-lanka</div>
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The warp is natural brown Fårö yarn from Sweden.</div>
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Kuteeksi kaivoin kaikki mahdolliset itse kehrätyt langat, joita kehruuharjoituksissa oli kertynyt ja kehräsin lisää.<br />
For the wefr I collected all the samples I had made during my spin practices. I also spun a lot more.<br />
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Kudoin kahdella sukkulalla: toisella oli hyvää, tasaista villaa ja toisella vähän möykkyisempää. Osa hyvästä villasta oli aiemmista projekteista jäänyttä Pirtin kehräämön yksisäikeistä (tex 180 x 1). Lopussa oli mahtavaa huomata, että minun kehräämäni ei juurikaan eronnut siitä.<br />
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I used two shuttles during the weaving. On the other one I had even, good yarn and on the other the bumby effect yarn from early spinning. Part of the good thinner yarn was left over from earlier projects, the Pirtti spin mill´s one ply (tex 180 x 1). At he end it was nice to notice tha my spinning was very much like it.<br />
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Kun kangas oli valmis, piti odottaa kevättä. Riku halusi että värjään kankaan puusepälle sopivan väriseksi.<br />
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When fabric was finished, it was time to wait for the spring. He wanted me to dye the fabric to colour suitable for a carpenter.<br />
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Talvi oli omenapuille kova, pari isoa oksaa katkesi. Siispä käytin niiden kuorta kankaan värjäämiseen.<br />
This winter was bad for apple trees and two big branches broke, so I used the apple tree bark for dyeing the fabric.<br />
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Kankaan pinnasta tuli varsin elävä: siinä vaihtuvat niin värit kuin kudelangan paksuuskin.<br />
The fabric became quite vidid: you can see the different colour wool and as well the different thickness of the weft yarn.<br />
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Parhaat kehruuni säästin etuosaan</div>
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The best spin is on the front piece.</div>
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Siinä se nyt on: käsin kehrätty, käsin kudottu, kasvivärjätty ja käsin ommeltu työvaate. Jaa väri...? Jotain keltaisen ja vihreän väliltä!<br />
And there it is:hand spun, hand woven, natural dyed and hand sewn dress for work. The colour..? Something between greenish and yellow!<br />
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Edit:<br />
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Tältä se näyttää Rikun päällä ja kas, mikäs huppu kuvaan on ilmestynyt...<br />
This is how it looks when he wears it. Oh, he seems to have a new hood too...<br />
<br />Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-75647611364404912912016-05-04T12:41:00.003+03:002016-05-04T12:41:35.281+03:00Tulossa! Spiraaleja ja kulkusia / Coming! Spirals and bells!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Pala alkuperäistä Siksälän viittaa. Hämmästyttävän hyvin säilyneenä. </i><br />
<a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2015/05/pronssia-ja-ihanuutta-eesti-rahva.html" target="_blank"><br /></a>
<a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2015/05/pronssia-ja-ihanuutta-eesti-rahva.html" target="_blank">Vuosi sitten Viron luentomatkalla</a> tuli sellainen idea...<br />
Istuin yleisön joukossa kuuntelemassa Riina Rammon ja Ave Matsinin esityksiä Kukrusen ja Siksälän tekstiililöydöistä. Tuli mieleen, että tämä pitää saada Suomeen.<br />
Juttelin aiheesta matkakumppaneille eli Jaana Riikoselle, Leena Tomanterälle ja Krista Vajannolle. Ajatus sai kannatusta.<br />
Jatkoimme kesällä Jaanan ja Hannele Köngäksen kanssa aiheesta puhumista ja niinpä sitten viime syksynä meitä istui viisi naista pöydän ääressä: Jaana Riikonen, Hannele Köngäs, Helena Honka-Hallilla ja Elina Laitinen ja minä.<br />
Tulokset näette muutaman kuukauden kuluttua: 29.-30. lokakuuta järjestämme Liedon Vanhalinnassa suuren tekstiiliaiheisen seminaarin Spiraaleja ja kulkusia Itämeren rannoilta.<br />
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Yhteistyökumppaneina ovat myös Raseko eli koulutuskuntayhtymä, johon Mynämäen koulu kuuluu, sekä esimerkiksi Turun Yliopisto. Jaana, Helena, Hannele ja Elina ovat tehneet jo nyt valtavan työn - he ovat yhteyksillään saaneet kaikki palaset loksahtamaan paikoilleen.<br />
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<a href="https://www.webropolsurveys.com/Answer/SurveyParticipation.aspx?SDID=Fin1115621&SID=abbc0bbd-b5f6-485d-9975-2e0fc1974578&dy=1433295023" target="_blank">Ilmoittautumiset</a> ottaa vastaan Raseko ja <a href="https://www.raseko.fi/spiraaleja-ja-kulkusia/" target="_blank">tässä alustava ohjelma</a>:<br />
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<b>Lauantai 29.10</b><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">Riina Rammo, Tarton yliopisto: Kukrusen muinaispukurekonstruktio (englanniksi)</span><br />
Ave Matsin, Tarton yliopiston Viljandin kulttuuriakatemia: Siksälän muinaispukurekonstruktio (englanniksi)<br />
Jaana Ratas, Tallinna: Spiraalikoristeiden valmistusmenetelmät<br />
Irita Zeiere, Latvian historiallinen museo, Riika: Kuurinmaalainen 1200-1300-luvun naisenpuku (englanniksi)<br />
Krista Vajanto, Helsingin yliopisto: Väreistä ja värjäämisestä rautakaudella<br />
Heini Kirjavainen, Turun yliopisto: Turun keskiaikaisista tekstiileistä<br />
Maikki Karisto ja Mervi Pasanen: Erään lautanauhan problematiikkaa<br />
Jaana Riikonen: Minkälainen olisi voinut olla miehen asu myöhäisrautakaudella?<br />
Helena Honka-Hallila: Ja kuinka se valmistettiin?<br />
Iida Räty: Kuvista kulkusnapeiksi<br />
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<b>Sunnuntai 30.10. Työpajat.</b><br />
Jaana Ratas: Spiraalikoristeiden valmistustekniikat<br />
Hannele Köngäs: Kokeiluja 2/2-toimikkaan ja putkihulpion kutomisesta eri tavoilla<br />
Mervi Pasanen: Neulakinnastekniikka<br />
Maikki Karisto: Lautanauhan kutominen<br />
Silja Penna-Haverinen ja Toive Lehtinen: Villan kampaus ja kehruu<br />
Krista Vajanto: Fermentoimalla värjääminen<br />
Elina Laitinen: Nahkajalkineet<br />
Mynämäen opiskelijat: Kolmivartinen ½-toimikas (Rippenköper) pystypuilla<br />
Helena Honka-Hallila: Miehen puvun valmistaminen<br />
Jaana Riikonen: Kaarinan muinaispuku<br />
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<b>In English:</b><br />
<a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2015/05/pronssia-ja-ihanuutta-eesti-rahva.html" target="_blank">Last year during our trip to Estonia</a> I got on idea. I sat there in the audience listening to interesting presentations and felt that "we need to get this to Finland too". I talked about it to Jaana Riikonen, Leena Tomanterä and Krista Vajanto and they agreed.<br />
We talked more at home and few months later Jaana Riikonen, Hannele Köngäs and I had a meeting. At the end there was five of us: Helena Honka-Hallila and Elina Laitinen joined the team.<br />
The results can be seen, heard and experienced at 29.-30th October, when our seminar Spirals and Bells from Coast of Baltic Sea takes place at Vanhalinna, Lieto.<br />
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We have: Riina Rammo, Ave Matsin and Jaana ratas from Estonia presenting Kukruse and Siksälä finds. We have Irita Zeitere presenting Latvian dress from Kuurinmaa. Krista Vajanto will tell about iron age dyed, Heini Kirjavainen about medieval textiles from Turku. Maikki Karisto tells about solving one tablet woven bands pattern<br />
Jaana Riikonen speaks about how an iron age male costume could have looked like and Helena Honka-Hallila tells how such a dress was made. Iida Räty tells how she turned pictures to bell buttons.<br />
We also have some evening program, small market and a iron age and medieval type feast!<br />
Then at Sunday we continue in workshops, where we teach nalbinding, fermentation dyeing, tablet weaving, spinning, sewing a iron age male clothing, shoe making, weaving 3-shaft twill on vertical loom, weaving tubular selvage to twill, making estonian spiral decorations and making the Kaarina iron age dress.<br />
Fabulous!<br />
I want already to thank Jaana, Helena, Hannele and Elina, who has done so much!<br />
Thanks to them, we have Raseko and Turku University and Vanhalinna as partners.<br />
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Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-47757111194379128832016-04-04T20:46:00.000+03:002016-04-05T20:29:38.843+03:00Krista Vajanto: Dyes and Dyeing Methods in Late Iron Age Finland <div>
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<i> Väritestejä Kaarinan muinaispuvun viitan uudeksi tulkinnaksi. / Dye tests for Kaarina costumes new shawl colours</i></div>
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Miltä kuulostaisi ajatus lähes mustasta muinaispuvusta?<br />
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Helsingin yliopistossa tarkastettu <a href="https://helda.helsinki.fi/handle/10138/159210" target="_blank">Krista Vajannon väitöskirja Suomen rautakauden väriaineista </a>ja värjäysmenetelmistä paljastaa, että musta - eli lähes musta - olisi ollut arvostettu ja haluttu väri myös tuolloin. Ja että sen värjääminen oli mahdollista, siihen tarvittiin toki taitava värjäri, joka tiesi mitä teki aikaa sekä päällekkäisvärjäyksiä.<br />
No miten olisi violetti viitta? Mikäs siinä, sekin olisi ollut mahdollinen!<br />
<b>Tällä kertaa annan Kristan itse kertoa väitöstutkimuksestaa. Lopussa paljastus siitä, mitä puuhaamme Kristan kanssa!</b><br />
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How would you feel about black dress in Finnish iron age?<br />
According to Krista Vajanto (<a href="https://helda.helsinki.fi/handle/10138/159210" target="_blank">read her PhD from here</a>) black, ar almost black, would have been wanted colour already during Finnish iron age. She also tells that dyeing it was possible. Yes, a talented dyed was needed, and some and overdyes.<br />
So how about a purple shawl? Yes, that was also possible.<br />
<b>This time I let Krista Vajanto to tell about her research with her own works. Ps. Big news, revealing what Krista and I are up to!</b><br />
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<i><b>Miksi värit eli miten olet päätynyt tutkimaan tätä aihetta?</b></i><br />
Väriaineilla on ollut tärkeä rooli kauppatavarana, erivärisillä kankailla on voitu osittaa yhteiskunnallista asemaa tai erottaa arki juhlasta – sekä osoittaa kulttuuritraditioita. Jo aiemmissa suomalaisissa tutkimuksissa oli aavisteltu, että Suomen rautakauden lopun värjäystraditio saattaisi poiketa siitä, mitä samaan aikaan tehtiin Euroopan keskiaikaa elävillä alueilla. Tämä oli tieteellisen tutkimuksen kannalta herkullinen alkuasetelma.<br />
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Lisäinnostusta asiaan antoi se, että viime vuosina materiaalitutkimuksessa on tullut uusia tutkimusmenetelmiä: nyt on mahdollista tutkia arkeologisia tekstiililöytöjä siten, että näytemäärä on erittäin pieni, mutta näytteistä saadaan irti suuri määrä tietoa.<br />
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<i><b>What made you interrested in colours and dyes?</b></i><br />
Dyes had a very importand role as a traded goods, different colour on clothes have shown the social status and they also separated everyday life from sunday or celebrations. They also have shown cultural traditions.<br />
Also the previous reseach indicated that during the Finnish iron age the tradition may vary from what was done in Europe in middle ages. This was a delicious starting point to scientific research.<br />
I got more inspiration from new and developed reseach methods: now it is possisble to reseach archeological textile finds by using very small samples but at the same time getting a lot of information from them.<br />
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<b><i>Mikä yllätti tutkimuksen aikana - oliko jokin löytö uusi?</i></b><br />
Yllättävää oli entisajan värjärien taitavuus ja kyky hyödyntää paikallisen luonnon resursseja. Esimerkiksi miten ihmeessä joku on keksinyt käyttää liekoja tai kortteita kasvipuretteina? Tai miten alun perin on oivallettu, että harmaa jäkälä kätkee sisäänsä purppuran violettia väriä?<br />
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<b><i>What surprised you during the research - was there any new finds?</i></b><br />
I was surpirsed by the skills of ancient dyers and their ability to use the resources of the surrounding nature. For example: how on earth did someone found out that they can use clubmoss or horsetail (Equisetum) as mordants. Or how they realized that a grey lichen contains purple color?<br />
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<b><i>Miten sinun tutkimuksesi perusteella rautakauden Suomessa värjättiin?</i></b><br />
Siihen aikaan oltiin niin taitavia, että osattiin värjätä peräti kolmella eri värjäystekniikalla! Mikään näistä tekniikoista ei vaatinut keittelyä, rauta tai kuparipataa, vaan pikemminkin suurehkon puusaavin. Se, mitä vaadittiin, oli aika, ammattitaito ja eri työvaiheiden organisointi toisiinsa hyvin limittyviksi.<br />
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1) Sininen ja violetti värjättiin virtsakyypissä. Jäkälät kasvoivat kotimaan kallioissa ja niillä värjääminen oli helppoa, sillä lämpötilan tarkkailua ei sen kummemmin tarvittu. Sininen saatiin morsingosta, joka oli kauppatavaraa ulkomailta.<br />
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2) Tanniinit fermentoitiin koivuntuhkalipeän kanssa ja käyneeseen liemeen lisättiin lanka imemään punaruskeaa väriä. Sivutuotteena langan vetolujuus kasvoi, mistä oli hyötyä kudottaessa loimipainoisilla pystykangaspuilla.<br />
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3) Puhdas punainen värjättiin paikallisten mataroiden juurilla. Puretukseen käytettiin kasvipuretetta, joka valmistettiin fermentoimalla liekoja, kortteita, sananjalkaa ja vesiheinää. Väriliemi kuumennettiin kuumilla kivillä puusaavissa.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzHasTeT5cuFIA0xkNskCvC9FjZW73p3MxAJFPqHdydwEP-ggzoBVX3Yh1TbesIOF6a6is6Lm1FdK7pY_Ivw8FEC21v6G6LdzofNr1W7_eHF2Njwxa2yuq0ozAuXhD0KVNroAh5cHy06-5/s1600/IMG_2031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzHasTeT5cuFIA0xkNskCvC9FjZW73p3MxAJFPqHdydwEP-ggzoBVX3Yh1TbesIOF6a6is6Lm1FdK7pY_Ivw8FEC21v6G6LdzofNr1W7_eHF2Njwxa2yuq0ozAuXhD0KVNroAh5cHy06-5/s400/IMG_2031.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<i>Arkeologinen värjäyskoe. Koivunlehtiä ja kuumia kiviä puuastiassa. Toimii! Siellä se lanka muuttuu keltaiseksi.</i><br />
<i>Archaeological dye test. Birch leaves and hot stones from fire pit. And it works! You can see yellow yarn there too.</i><br />
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<b><i>According to your research, how did they dye during Finnish iron age?</i></b><br />
By that time they were so skilled, that they knew how to use three different dye methods! None of them needed iron or copper pot, or boiling, More likely they needed a big wooden vessel. And also what was needed was skills, time and organizing different phases of process to another.<br />
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1) Blue and purple were dyed in urine vat. Lichens were growing in rocks nearby and dyeing was easy, since no temperature control was needed. Blue colour came from woad, which was imported.<br />
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2) The tannins were fermented with lime made or birch ash, and the yarn was added to it, in order to turn brownish red. As a side effect the yarn became stronger which was really useful thing during the time of vertical looms.<br />
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3) Pure reds was dyed by using local bedstraw roots. As mordant they used plants like clubmoss, fern, chickweed and forest horsetail. The dye was heated by using hot stones in wooden vessel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrNw7x7o3yeqj9s6Dd04d91Yn7DXm1Lnlp-pJTB7Ve4MgCjNKhR9hsS3U6Ou4tgNqfNuabjGDxDZz4Ucgj8AwUo3vCxcBOHhCCoOpvgxMhgDRwvPDcZJe3VW0mSggHnifnfyqvnJi2wHtb/s1600/IMG_2035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrNw7x7o3yeqj9s6Dd04d91Yn7DXm1Lnlp-pJTB7Ve4MgCjNKhR9hsS3U6Ou4tgNqfNuabjGDxDZz4Ucgj8AwUo3vCxcBOHhCCoOpvgxMhgDRwvPDcZJe3VW0mSggHnifnfyqvnJi2wHtb/s400/IMG_2035.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><i>Mitkä olivat löytöjen perusteella tärkeät värit?</i></b><br />
Musta, punaruskea, punainen ja violetti. Musta saatiin värjäämällä sinisen päälle. Keltaiset ja vihreät kuuluisivat siten enemmän keskiajan ilmiöihin. Uusia kulttuurivaikutteita olivat keittovärjäys, alunaa, reseda ja muut tuontivärit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLVeFaNepkbw7H4xoM3bsR81Z_F7QbIg93cckhGO4MSwqxN61nC2Ri_lzJHnLn3B8PLh10LsoDx1pOfkvMDirYVu0L74ERc-QbGcppIMLzXRCP2EOi4dZLx8ZeVu9W085bKjDW5sviQXHS/s1600/IMG_1205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLVeFaNepkbw7H4xoM3bsR81Z_F7QbIg93cckhGO4MSwqxN61nC2Ri_lzJHnLn3B8PLh10LsoDx1pOfkvMDirYVu0L74ERc-QbGcppIMLzXRCP2EOi4dZLx8ZeVu9W085bKjDW5sviQXHS/s400/IMG_1205.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<i>What do you get if you mix blue woad and reddish madder? Brown? No. Black.</i><br />
<i>Jos yhdistää morsingon ja mataran, mitä väriä saa? Ruskeaa? Eipäs tulekaan, vaan mustaa.</i><br />
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<b><i>Which colors were important at Late iron age Finland?</i></b><br />
Black, brownish red, red and purple. Black was dyed by over dyeing blue. Yellows and greens seem to be more medieval. By that time new methods and dye plants appear, like alum mordant and reseda luteola and other imported dye materials.<br />
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<b><i>Jos tekisit itsellesi puvun nyt, minkä värinen se olisi?</i></b><br />
Puvussa olisi mustaa ja punaista. Näistä kahdesta punainen voisi olla joko tummanpunaista (matara) tai punaruskeaa (fermentoidut tanniinit) tai violettia (jäkäläpurppura). Musta olisi lempeä, sillä se olisi värjätty yhdistämällä useita eri värejä. Sen värjäykseen olisi voitu käyttää vaikkapa morsinkoa kahdella eri tekniikalla sekä metsäkortetta.<br />
Tuntisin oloni varsin kodikkaaksi, sillä ihan samalla värilinjalla mentäisiin kuin mun normi-arjessakin<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1sP0fJg94GteuAfh7jcngS3srmnzecUsDVNEaEvoLE4eHS2duA8pmOeOposRkPqJOSWWGRoMSlH5Mh1QJmk9Zl7zKHNtxD2siKnlXsGHyQ6ZbzsiswdWN632AnPhdl3vvlaPnZeXooiU0/s1600/IMG_1195.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1sP0fJg94GteuAfh7jcngS3srmnzecUsDVNEaEvoLE4eHS2duA8pmOeOposRkPqJOSWWGRoMSlH5Mh1QJmk9Zl7zKHNtxD2siKnlXsGHyQ6ZbzsiswdWN632AnPhdl3vvlaPnZeXooiU0/s400/IMG_1195.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<i>Sinistä. Sinisellä.</i><br />
<i>Blue over blue.</i><br />
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<b><i>If you would make a Finnish iron age dress for yourself, what color would it be?</i></b><br />
It would have black and red. The red could be either dark red (Madder) or reddish brown (fermented tannins) or even purple (lichen). Black would be mellow, because it would be created by over dyeing several colors. I would use for example woad with two different technique and over dye it with forest horsetail.<br />
I would feel rather cosy, those are my chosen colors even on modern everyday life.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQpiGkarbuZ8iJ5p7PFDptVuxuDupvk4wvVafNaizM23PAuYKFVFuL2bLfWiF3B414AA4tQ3IL80x0MOex-2AYDkFUPEQ6ptIyRmDKL6Bnz_yZawnF0N8q3f5Fo-O44tnZ-fQzXMSuULnx/s1600/IMG_0993.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQpiGkarbuZ8iJ5p7PFDptVuxuDupvk4wvVafNaizM23PAuYKFVFuL2bLfWiF3B414AA4tQ3IL80x0MOex-2AYDkFUPEQ6ptIyRmDKL6Bnz_yZawnF0N8q3f5Fo-O44tnZ-fQzXMSuULnx/s400/IMG_0993.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><i>Miten kasvivärjäyksestä kiinnostuneet voivat käyttää tuloksiasi?</i></b><br />
Noooh… jos hieman malttavat odotella, niin loppuvuodesta ilmestyy värjäyskirja rautakauden väreistä ja värjäystekniikoista.<br />
Mutta jos on kova kiire päästä fermentoimaan jo ensi kesänä, lyhyet värjäysohjeet löytyvät myös väitöskirjastani.<br />
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<b><i>How could the people who are interested in natural dyeing use your research results?</i></b><br />
Well... If they can wait a bit, at the end of the year there will be a book about dyes and dye methods in Late iron age.<br />
If they are busy with fermenting, short recipes are included to my PhD too.<br />
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Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-54973366732850457312016-03-30T13:19:00.002+03:002016-03-30T13:19:52.219+03:00Lähikuvassa: Ruotsin ennallistuksia / close ups of inlaid woolen coverlets from Sweden<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisHyfoKO6gKEDIxvhYwca3Bq5G-JVXG2g4bgPE7bazuWLoj4D5QWrm2BhgQLnuHge8dbnT6ialyNIBv4KDsYV1ECxKb5TCjBRp8mfvX6wnIonlnuIzREquN5EEPVGA9R8rilAbAIUmOy1y/s1600/ruotsi+%252811%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisHyfoKO6gKEDIxvhYwca3Bq5G-JVXG2g4bgPE7bazuWLoj4D5QWrm2BhgQLnuHge8dbnT6ialyNIBv4KDsYV1ECxKb5TCjBRp8mfvX6wnIonlnuIzREquN5EEPVGA9R8rilAbAIUmOy1y/s640/ruotsi+%252811%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Maria Neijman ja upea Dalhemin peite</div>
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Maria Neijman and magnificent Dalhem coverlet</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6znEUB0_uzzUg6BFEPnlNTFXU6r5Qk_G_q-KOWLM-b7uxZjLifslvn3lCvvqjeP6fMZSkZCgYiis2jjndhXI62kkB592XQYkz4bxKNWK0JE4Wn22L2fZ049FximpRjvUg4hDtRqqRa-ZA/s1600/ruotsi+%25289%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6znEUB0_uzzUg6BFEPnlNTFXU6r5Qk_G_q-KOWLM-b7uxZjLifslvn3lCvvqjeP6fMZSkZCgYiis2jjndhXI62kkB592XQYkz4bxKNWK0JE4Wn22L2fZ049FximpRjvUg4hDtRqqRa-ZA/s400/ruotsi+%25289%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Kävin talvilomalla Ruotsissa kahvilla. Meillä oli aamu-fika Maria Neijmanin kanssa ja sen jälkeen kävimme Rikun kanssa katsomassa oikein tosi läheltä näitä upeita intarsiatöitä, jotka ruotsalaiset ovat ennallistaneet. Voitte lukea koko tarinan Marian ja Amica Sundtrömin<a href="http://historicaltextiles.org/2016/03/26/att-aterskapa-tva-guldskinnstacken-to-recreate-two-inlaid-woolen-coverlets/" target="_blank"> mahtavasta blogista </a>.</div>
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Ei liene tarpeen kertoa, miten kateellisia me suomalaiset nyt olemme.</div>
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Skepptunan ja Dalhemin peitteet (näillä on nimenomaan peitetty jotain, eivät ole roikkuneet seinällä) esiteltiin yleisölle Historiska museetissa pääsiäisen ala. Alkuperäiset ja ennallistukset ovat kesään asti nähtävillä yhtä aikaa, menkää ihmeessä katsomaan!</div>
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Tai sitten voit nähdä ne kesällä Gotlannissa, ne ovat Battle of Wisbyn ajan esillä.</div>
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During my winter holiday I visited Stockholm Sweden. I really needed to get a cup pf coffee in good company so I had a morning fika (= swedish expression coffee break) for with Maria Neijman.</div>
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After coffee we went to see the coverlet recreations they made with group of volunteers. You can read the whole story from<a href="http://historicaltextiles.org/2016/03/26/att-aterskapa-tva-guldskinnstacken-to-recreate-two-inlaid-woolen-coverlets/" target="_blank"> excellent blog of Maria Neijman and Amica</a> Sundström.</div>
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I´m not telling you how envious we finnish people now are. (Finland was part of Sweden that time when originalc were made so actually we can take part of the credit here).</div>
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Skepptuna and Dalhem coverlets were presented to the public at Historiska Museet and they can be seen with originals. If you come to Battle of Wisby to Gotland this summer, you will see them there too.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9M91GOvxlJUYW06hVIqjlJCM5WcW7xM7-50pVFTg7APlow5DH0-LLLuYW1mgNm2yZmRL9N580WMzLDJA8faiND555XOYcQ2_NfCuy2VIWQiBjvYDnGYzXqcVbki_fOI-7GjOa30pBFY5Y/s1600/ruotsi+%252810%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9M91GOvxlJUYW06hVIqjlJCM5WcW7xM7-50pVFTg7APlow5DH0-LLLuYW1mgNm2yZmRL9N580WMzLDJA8faiND555XOYcQ2_NfCuy2VIWQiBjvYDnGYzXqcVbki_fOI-7GjOa30pBFY5Y/s400/ruotsi+%252810%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Skepptunan peite<br />
Skepptuna coverlet<br />
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-avDYQndsLIComvua6INvUGNIY0dN6aAQ5adbwhDro0cUhD-s9BV2P1LBxmMfL9-x-i_CRVx7xLZTGVyvKX8IIuqpEIWgn0G-3zkiXyZSQRNPF96PujgNPOdNCTsVnxCnvojG-H64llWv/s1600/ruotsi+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-avDYQndsLIComvua6INvUGNIY0dN6aAQ5adbwhDro0cUhD-s9BV2P1LBxmMfL9-x-i_CRVx7xLZTGVyvKX8IIuqpEIWgn0G-3zkiXyZSQRNPF96PujgNPOdNCTsVnxCnvojG-H64llWv/s400/ruotsi+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Miten ihastuttavia yksityiskohtia / Just love these details!</div>
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Kullattua nahkaa, leikattu muutaman millin levyisiksi suikaleiksi ja sitten pistelty kiinni kankaaseen. Ällistyttävää taidokkuutta!</div>
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Gilded leather, cut in just few mm wide slices and then stitched to the fabric. Amazing skills!</div>
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Hilpeitä elukoita!</div>
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Hilarious creatures!</div>
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Tämän haluan näyttää ihan erityisesti: tämän peitteen materiaali oli kuulemma erityisen hankala ommella. No, jos on mestarillisen taitava neulankäyttäjä...Therese Pettersonin käsistä.<br />
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I want to point this one out: this coverlet had really tricky material, very easily fraying. But if you are am master level seamstress, no problem! This magical needle work is done by Therese Petterson.<br />
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Katsokaa miten siisti myös nurjalta puolelta!<br />
Look at that! So neat and tidy also from the back side!<br />
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Yksityiskohtia / Details<br />
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<br />Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-68548877902154234692016-03-09T15:33:00.003+02:002016-03-24T14:01:29.899+02:00Kaksi kuukautta sitä ja tätä / last two monts of this and that<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Tämä on yksi talven kohokohdista: Rosalan talvitapahtuma ja perhepotretti.</i></div>
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<i>This is one of the winters high lights: Rosala viking centre and winter event. And the family portrait.</i></div>
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Kaksi kuukautta on vilahtanut silmissä. En ole laiskotellut, vaan puuhannut valtavasti kaikkea mukavaa. Tässä kuva-albumi muutamista huippujutuista:</div>
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Two months has passed so fast! But I ahve nto been lazy, instead I have been doing this and that, all kinds of fun things. Here is a photo album of it:</div>
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Helmikuussa oli Iloisen Joutsenen<a href="https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1086537228072768.1073741826.208733945853105&type=3" target="_blank"> talviulkoilupäivä</a> eli Hiidenhirven hiihto Pukkisaaressa. Kamala keli, mutta hirmu hauska päivä. Taisimme olla melkoinen näky Helsingin Munkkiniemessä! Elina teki samalla hauskan huntutestin, <a href="http://www.neulakko.net/?p=15566" target="_blank">lue se täältä!</a><br />
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At February we had a Merry Swans <a href="https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1086537228072768.1073741826.208733945853105&type=3" target="_blank">day out,</a> the ancient ski event at Helsinki. The weather was horrible, but we had a fun day. I thinkg we were quite a scene in ther middle of Helsinki.<br />
Elina made a veil test - <a href="http://www.neulakko.net/?p=15566" target="_blank">read all about it!</a><br />
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Tänä talvena olen opettanut paikallisessa kansalaisopistossa eli Wellamo-opistossa ja yksi kursseista oli nimeltään Keskiajan vaateparsi. Tässä kurssilaisia uusissa (melkein valmiissa) mekoissaan! Jokainen teki kurssin nimen mukaisesti koko vaateparren sukista huntuun ja kaikki käsin.</div>
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Ja tein siinä sivussa itsellekin punaisen Herjolfsnes 39-mekon.</div>
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This winter I have been teaching in local evening school, and one of the courses was medieval dress making. Here you can see my students wearing their (almost finished) new dresses! During the course I made one for my self too, a red Herjolfsnes 39</div>
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Suomen rautakausi on nyt ollut hyvin, hyvin ajankohtainen - kerron myöhemmin miksi. Sen innoittamana olen puuhannut muun muassa miehen tupsuvyön ja Rosalan hienoissa puitteissa kuvannut vähän päähineitä.<br />
Huomaatteko, ihan tajuttoman upea hopeinen sykerö! Sen teki äärettömän lahjakas Hanna, johon olen tutustunut keskiaikamarkkinoilla. Hän sai minulta vastalahjaksi komean lautanauhavyön.<br />
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Finnish iron age has now been in my mind a lot, I will tell later why. Inspired by it I have been doing all kinds of thing, like a tassel belt for my husband. I also tested different head wear.<br />
Look at my silver basket! It´s made by extremely talented Hanna, whom I met at medieval markets. I made her a fancy tablet woven belt as a return gift.<br />
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Vyöhön on kudottu tuppilonauha.<br />
The belt is tablet woven tubular band.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1mO2GBUS5QVirGQUV7WOLrGDpuOERzz0mrpCsTxig5px088m5Z0kjncYzyVbgrMloIdk3EKjbpS3nUw0KLKSbq5vIoHWPwMG2U0gSWI4TtgUiTbhxqBBkwkxtiahjENnXvARJNJwARTpO/s1600/tupsu2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1mO2GBUS5QVirGQUV7WOLrGDpuOERzz0mrpCsTxig5px088m5Z0kjncYzyVbgrMloIdk3EKjbpS3nUw0KLKSbq5vIoHWPwMG2U0gSWI4TtgUiTbhxqBBkwkxtiahjENnXvARJNJwARTpO/s400/tupsu2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Yksityiskohta tupsuvyön pronsseista.<br />
Detail of the tassel belts bronze spirals.<br />
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Ai niin tämäkin vielä.<br />
Minähän en osaa kirjoa. Siispä kirjoin seinävaatteen.<br />
And this too: I am not an embroiderer. So I decided to make an embroidered wall hanging.<br />
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Tällä kertaa ei muuta! Mutta olkaapas kuulolla! Uutisia tulossa!<br />
This time thats all folks, but stay tuned! News coming!<br />
<br />Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-8621562999069525862016-01-24T16:07:00.000+02:002016-01-25T10:11:42.692+02:00Näin tehdään viikinkitakki / designing a kaftan for Viking <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcapHC8MglgkNwQJunttw7iASTAH2ORuQuuCh_kg9wznLU6qSZux1q3lPpfMdk2l1z0wC14Ow556EVV4gfpyCSpLuf9ggklGIz_4dlr94Q_1YbpBp9xDav6SIPx9e9CozcABb7IAl_dtaa/s1600/IMG_0159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcapHC8MglgkNwQJunttw7iASTAH2ORuQuuCh_kg9wznLU6qSZux1q3lPpfMdk2l1z0wC14Ow556EVV4gfpyCSpLuf9ggklGIz_4dlr94Q_1YbpBp9xDav6SIPx9e9CozcABb7IAl_dtaa/s400/IMG_0159.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Tein takin viikingille. Se on valmis postitettavaksi, mutta tulipa mieleen kertoa, mitä tällaisen takin tekeminen pitää sisällään.</div>
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I made a viking kaftan. It is now ready to be shipped, but I thought that I could tell you what making a coat like this includes.</div>
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1. Asiakas kertoo että haluaisi tilata takin ja mitä tyyliä se olisi.</div>
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1. Customer tells that he would like to get a coat and what style it should be.</div>
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2. Mietitään väri, kankaan laatu ja mahdollinen vuori. Etsitään asiakkaalle sopiva kangas ja ehdotetaan vaihtoehtoja.</div>
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2. Customer chooses the color, quality of the fabric and decides if it needs to be lined. Seamstress looks for a suitable fabric and suggests possible choices.</div>
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3. Tilataan kangas. Se on loppu varastosta, joten odotetaan hetki.</div>
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3. Place the fabric order. It´s out of stock so you wait.</div>
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4. Saadaan kangas. Sitten alkaa sommittelu: mitä koristeita, minkä värisiä.</div>
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4. Get the fabric. Design the possible decorations and make color design.</div>
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5. Asiakas on lähettänyt mitat. Varmista ne moneen kertaan, sillä sovittamaan et pääse.</div>
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5. Customer has sent the measurement. Make sure they are right - fitting won't be possible.</div>
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6. Kudo lautanauha. Mittaa tarve ja sommittele värit. Tähän takkiin meni kuusi metriä.</div>
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6. Make tablet woven band. Design the colours. Weave: this took about 6 meters.</div>
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7. Leikkaa kangas. Tarkista mitat vielä kerran. Ala ommella takkia kokoon,</div>
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7. Cut the fabric. Ask once more f the measures are correct . Start sewing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyWdB37qIfTh9zT_PaNOpbXt-KX0cys40l9NtAlcuI9tTDGOtxkP9O4pNQINp7P7f-Cc9h0leADrFU9fu7t72pQIpW_Y3zi7EA4plqkq1iV_-0BvjIMsJVjr1rs4ohQuo_veXL1DYGktkq/s1600/IMG_0133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyWdB37qIfTh9zT_PaNOpbXt-KX0cys40l9NtAlcuI9tTDGOtxkP9O4pNQINp7P7f-Cc9h0leADrFU9fu7t72pQIpW_Y3zi7EA4plqkq1iV_-0BvjIMsJVjr1rs4ohQuo_veXL1DYGktkq/s400/IMG_0133.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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8. Kun itse takki on kasassa, se on vasta alkua.</div>
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8. When the coat is sewn, the work actually begins.</div>
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9. Leikkaa koristesuikaleet, ompele paikalleen. Kun silmä sanoo että sauma ei ole suora, pura ja korjaa.</div>
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9. Sew the decorative strips. If your eyes say that seam is not good, ravel and sew again.</div>
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10. Kokeile eri väreillä ja pistoilla millainen rajaus takin ja koristeen väliin tulee.</div>
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10. Test with different colors and stitches how to border the decoration stripes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj645PYGgaPJ_Fe8aVKo-7Mh54ubQiBEtdT-QY2bixvZhX41J4_tqOiC0MPCkzls0nXuNt0mkEZlAFXBB9py_VX8P1kw-1hilq675-tWvj4rF3dPIGbh2tgsB8rwICcAuDDaImWjsXWOG5a/s1600/IMG_0149.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj645PYGgaPJ_Fe8aVKo-7Mh54ubQiBEtdT-QY2bixvZhX41J4_tqOiC0MPCkzls0nXuNt0mkEZlAFXBB9py_VX8P1kw-1hilq675-tWvj4rF3dPIGbh2tgsB8rwICcAuDDaImWjsXWOG5a/s400/IMG_0149.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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11. Kiinnitä lautanauhat.</div>
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11. Attach tablet woven bands.</div>
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12. Huolittele ja viimeistele myös näkymättömät asiat kuten takin sisäosista nappilista ja pääntie. Höyrytä koko takki huolellisesti kostean pellavaliinan läpi. Kiinnitä soljet.</div>
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12. Finish also the non-visible parts like the button list inside the coat and neckline. Steam iron the whole coat by using wet linen cloth and stem iron. Attach the clasps.</div>
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13. Vie takki ulos lumeen ja pakkaseen, sillä tämä on viimeinen hetki kun se kokee pohjoisen ilman. Pakkaa postipakettiin ja kirjoita päälle että "Australia".</div>
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13. Take it out and let it taste the crips cold air and snow. This will be it´s last day in northern winter. Pack it and write word Australia on top of the box.</div>
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Viking kaftan, rus style. Blue wool: Medeltidsmode. Red woll: Naturtuche. Tablet woven band: pattern 9 from our tablet weaving book Applesies and Fox Noses. All hand sewn with blue and red silk yarn. Finished with yellow silk yarn. Clasps: by customer.</div>
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Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-29547717821793312732016-01-18T15:34:00.003+02:002016-01-20T10:55:02.360+02:00Euran muinaispuvun nauhat / Tablet woven bands of Eura dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDoFPDiH2X-qUPrGcKG-_aDNbbXgpVWTS_QV4TgB5ouPNueEa-7uVggflk7hIVypKqyCLL9iifpX5qkUZs8gYmrpWLP6nkmdn2A-T0aP3WMBJNbjcyjRxk_bFjp2LHD_9evjhMzQo6SCv1/s1600/IMG_0069.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDoFPDiH2X-qUPrGcKG-_aDNbbXgpVWTS_QV4TgB5ouPNueEa-7uVggflk7hIVypKqyCLL9iifpX5qkUZs8gYmrpWLP6nkmdn2A-T0aP3WMBJNbjcyjRxk_bFjp2LHD_9evjhMzQo6SCv1/s400/IMG_0069.jpg" width="312" /></a></div>
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Sosiaalisessa mediassa pohdittiin, miten ne Euran puvun nauhat kudotaan.<br />
No, hei, mulla on se ohje... olen aikoinaan hankkinut kaikki saatavilla olevat suomalaisten muinaispukujen valmistusohjeet.<br />
Tässä Euran nauhan ohje:<br />
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In socian media some people have been wondering how to weave the band for Eura iron age dress. I have the instructions, I have bought all instructions which are available to Finnish iron age dresses. So yes I have the pattern... it looks like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuiU3TuwU28Tgydv09J3jpermcmitLatg7fTCJf8KEhKLaTg7neE_Qd55awqA2TTTP_n_mXp_LGZgV7eWPlbn-fNLBixPJyB6l8s_phd0lD2RgWBo6VGwtOUabWtd0Tjsyjs7G-1EFGvcn/s1600/IMG_0064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuiU3TuwU28Tgydv09J3jpermcmitLatg7fTCJf8KEhKLaTg7neE_Qd55awqA2TTTP_n_mXp_LGZgV7eWPlbn-fNLBixPJyB6l8s_phd0lD2RgWBo6VGwtOUabWtd0Tjsyjs7G-1EFGvcn/s400/IMG_0064.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Koska nämä vanhanmalliset ohjeet ovat hankalia tulkita, eivätkä tarjoa esimerkiksi lautojen aloitusasentoa tai tietoa siitä, miten lautojen ABCD on suhteessa kutojaan, niin ajattelin tehdä asialle jotain.<br />
Euran nauhoissa on sellainen ongelma, että alkuperäisestä nauhasta on pystytty 1980-luvun taitteessa tulkitsemaan vain toinen reuna. Kun Euran pukua ennallistettiin, niin Pirkko-Liisa Lehtosalo-Hilander, Seija Sarkki ja Leena Tomanterä kolmistaan miettivät millaisia nauhat ovat olleet. He loivat mallin, jossa on 11 kuviolautaa ja 6 reunalautaa. Nauhaan luotiin meanderkuvio, jota toistetaan ensin yhteen suuntaan ja sitten toiseen. Syynä on se, että malli kerää runsaasti kierrettä.<br />
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Tämän päivän tietämyksen valossa nauha voisi olla aivan erilainen, mutta sitä odotellessa voi kuriositeettina kutoa nämä kaksi versiota nauhan tulkinnasta.<br />
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Since these old notations are difficult to weave, and for example don't give the starting position of the tablets or don't tell how ABCD order is set, I thought that something needs to be done.<br />
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There is a problem with Eura bands: when dress was recreated, only the other edge or the band fragment could be interpreted. Pirkko-Liisa Lehtosalo-Hilander, Seija Sarkki and Leena Tomanterä designed a band that they say to be "a compromise". This work was made in 1980´s.<br />
So this is not a totally historical find and it would be interesting to see how the band would look like in the light of todays knowledge.<br />
While waiting for that to happen you can weave these versions.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDj_z9O4WqSE_gLdX_AcmW5scZZYmjCwGAtkeYJyeeBzWanRUHdO9Ex4bzQBmD8Wh8MpbXA3zHP-w3cS78SG9OyQdeIo87h_aLYnQuK5sgG8ea1ae7Hv58VH82OynQgUIJi1HZfRjYZNut/s1600/IMG_0075.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDj_z9O4WqSE_gLdX_AcmW5scZZYmjCwGAtkeYJyeeBzWanRUHdO9Ex4bzQBmD8Wh8MpbXA3zHP-w3cS78SG9OyQdeIo87h_aLYnQuK5sgG8ea1ae7Hv58VH82OynQgUIJi1HZfRjYZNut/s400/IMG_0075.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Euran puvun valmistusohjeiden mukana tulee pätkä mallinauhaa. Kudoin omani (alempi) Wetterhofin Veerasta (tex 55 x 2). Käsialani on selvästi tiiviimpi ja tiukempi kuin mallinauha, jonka kudontajälki on rennompi kuin omani ja siksi kuvio on pitkä ja matala.<br />
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With Eura dress instructions comes a piece of sample band - the upper in this picture. The lower is my weaving. I used Wetterhof Veera yarn (tex 55 x 2). As you can see, my hand is tighter than the sample, that is why the motif on sample is narrow and long compared to mine.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaSbADy2unvt5oqnJa1FuJvIoMluDjJK-HBsiZXc6o3_ExCLDwQkz6BFZ835bqPFgEO34hWfae3j1eGJXsdn88ilhTb0Uj9gQXpfV7btuByD7WsyHAcGiJHoZuo-F_NU3LmpTaVnfx_tSu/s1600/IMG_0076.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaSbADy2unvt5oqnJa1FuJvIoMluDjJK-HBsiZXc6o3_ExCLDwQkz6BFZ835bqPFgEO34hWfae3j1eGJXsdn88ilhTb0Uj9gQXpfV7btuByD7WsyHAcGiJHoZuo-F_NU3LmpTaVnfx_tSu/s400/IMG_0076.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Toinen nauha on miehustan nauhaa hieman yksinkertaisempi.<br />
The other version is bit more simple than the first one.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdGkMTPUyjC3-IngpaApuROX9bvld3mBnbLIoBPVZOaRi3ZJbslpJQ4x_zOQpdbqdv7xGUpInqdb2pbKSlJk5mRYIQq8w2CvlvpwYZhXjKx96z97u0KI81CMYA326sXN-Aaw9fzLuOJg9I/s1600/IMG_0079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdGkMTPUyjC3-IngpaApuROX9bvld3mBnbLIoBPVZOaRi3ZJbslpJQ4x_zOQpdbqdv7xGUpInqdb2pbKSlJk5mRYIQq8w2CvlvpwYZhXjKx96z97u0KI81CMYA326sXN-Aaw9fzLuOJg9I/s400/IMG_0079.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Kuten huomaat, olen kutonut nauhan valkoisella kuteella. Kokeilin myös reunalankojen väriä eli sinistä, mutta nauhan pohja on valkoisella kudottuna siistimpi.</div>
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As you notice, I have woven this by using white weft yarn. I tested also weaving with blue but the the white part of the band is much neater with white weft.</div>
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Euran puku on esitelty muun muassa mainiossa kirjassa Sinihameet kultavyöt - suomalaisia muinaispukuja. Se kuuluu jokaisen rautakausiharrastajan käsikirjastoon.<br />
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Eura dress is presented also in excellent book Sinihameet kultavyöt - suomalaisia muinaispukuja. It´s book which every iron age enthusiast should have.<br />
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Tuossa nauha onkin paikallaan miehustassa.<br />
Here you can see the band in bust line.<br />
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Ja toinen helmassa.<br />
And here on hemline.<br />
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Koko Euran puvun tarina on luettavissa tästä kirjasta.</div>
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Ja sitten kutomaan! Tässä nauhojen kudontaohje on käännetty Maikki Kariston merkintätavalle (joka näyttää muuten leviävän maailmalla muissakin kudontaohjeissa)</div>
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Tässä lautojen asettelu on suora eli kaikki samaan suuntaan. Silloin kudontaohjeessa oikealle kallistuvat silmut kierretään eteen eli itsestä poispäin ja vasemmalle kallistuvat silmut kierretään taakse eli itseen päin.</div>
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So let´s we've: here the pattern is drafted to Maikki Aristo´s notation (which seams to be spreading to other weaving patterns too). Here the setting is straight, all the tablets are to same direction. When stich is leaning to right, it means turning forward aka away from the weaver. When stich is leaning to the left, is means turning backwards aka towards the weaver.</div>
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Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-32534178033062492682015-12-16T17:51:00.001+02:002015-12-17T18:15:39.944+02:00Aarreaitta: Tarton keskiaikaiset tekstiilit / what a treasure: Medieval textiles from Tartu, Estonia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: #414141; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>TÄNÄÄN / TODAY: </b></span></span></div>
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Riina Rammo "Tekstiilileiud Tartu keskaegsetest jäätmekastidest: tehnoloogia, kaubandus ja tarbimine" </h1>
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<article about="/en/events/riina-rammo-tekstiilileiud-tartu-keskaegsetest-jaatmekastidest-tehnoloogia-kaubandus" class="node node-ut-event node-published node-not-promoted node-not-sticky author-admin odd clearfix" id="node-ut-event-2357589" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 2em; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" typeof="sioc:Item foaf:Document"><div class="content clearfix" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
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Date: </div>
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Thesis supervisors: Senior Research Fellow Heiki Valk, PhD Jüri Peets, PhD Erki Russow.<br />
Opponents: Dr hab prof Jerzy Maik (Instytut Archeologii i Etnologii Polskiej Akademii Nauk, oddział w Łodzi); Dr. Katrin Kania (Otto-Friedrich-Universität Bamberg).</div>
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<strong style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Summary</strong><br />
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In the medieval society, the functions of textiles were manifold and might vary from practical to symbolic. Every medieval person needed textiles every day – in addition to clothing, in household and furnishing as well as packaging and sails in transport. One of the biggest medieval assemblages of archaeological textiles has been found in cesspits in Tartu. The doctoral theses are based on 3257 textile fragments. Cesspits were once used as lavatories and pits for waste. Textile scraps thrown into cesspit may originate from craft activities (e.g. tailoring) or these were used as equivalents to modern toilet paper or sanitary towels. The amount of both written and iconographic sources about medieval Tartu is limited, thus the textile fragments form the main source for studying textile trade and production as well as consumption habits and clothing culture of townspeople.<br />
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It seems that the inhabitants of medieval Tartu have preferred imported textiles to local products. The role of hanseatic trade in shaping the textile market in Tartu should not be underestimated. Among the numerous textile finds from the cesspits of Tartu, several types of imported cloth from West European production centres dominate, while fragments, which can be regarded local products, form a minority. Broadcloth, it means felted, teaselled and sheared woollen fabric, can be pointed out as typical to the medieval town culture. Remains of clothing items reveal that the inhabitants of Tartu were well informed about fashion spread in other North European towns. The most luxurious fabric was silk. Edgings and decorative top-stitching of silk was used in order to stress the status of the wearer. In medieval Tartu no large scale textile production developed. Nevertheless, the innovations related with professional urban craft (horizontal looms, carders, spinning wheel) in European towns obviously reached also Tartu. In rural areas of Livonia foreign urban textiles were rare and technological innovations of textile production were not introduced before Modern Era.<br />
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<b>EDIT: Link to the PhD text at the end of this blog post!!</b></div>
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Tänään on hieno päivä! Tekstiiliarkelologi <b>Riina Rammo </b>väittelee tohtoriksi Tarton yliopistossa aiheenaan Tarton keskiaikaiset tekstiilit. Vieraillessani Tartossa viime keväänä Riina kysyi, haluaisinko nähdä hänen tutkimiaan fragmentteja. Ai halusinko?!</div>
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Tässä sitä sitten keskustellaan silkkinauhoista, pistoista ja napinlävistä. Se oli oikea onnen päivä, tekstiilinörtille.</div>
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This is a great day! Today estonian textile archeologist <b>Riina Rammo</b> has her Doctoral defense! She made her PhD about medieval textiles of Tarto. Last spring when I visited Tarto, she asked if I wanted to see what she has been researching. Did I?!</div>
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So here we are, talking about silk facings, stitches and buttonholes. It was a lucky day for a textile nerd.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZxjm3KOrFvoKPyap0SVzwuGSvBMutJiTUtmzsz8AdCESpbqTUuotN1lU54P5s0b9ut2PHcv2LlnvUzwvRGeXxqNpIC6Qxy9dr5BA6IKxgHIEFTcOMb8QHYf_eknZ9ZKMtJh2x1Fc4hnM1/s1600/IMG_1254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZxjm3KOrFvoKPyap0SVzwuGSvBMutJiTUtmzsz8AdCESpbqTUuotN1lU54P5s0b9ut2PHcv2LlnvUzwvRGeXxqNpIC6Qxy9dr5BA6IKxgHIEFTcOMb8QHYf_eknZ9ZKMtJh2x1Fc4hnM1/s400/IMG_1254.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Materiaalia oli todella paljon, pinoittain suuria pahviarkkeja täynnä kankaanpaloja. Riinan aineistossa on noin 3300 fragmenttia!</div>
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There is really a lot of material. Piles and piles of fabric pieces, almost 4000 of them, of which 3300 is included to Riina´s work.</div>
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Aineiston perustella Riina on päätellyt, että Tartossa suosittiin tuontikankaita ja keskieurooppalaista muotia: aineistossa näkyvät ylelliset villakankaat ja silkit eivät ole paikallista tuotantoa.</div>
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Riina has deduced that most of the remained textiles are imported and that Tarto inhabitants favored central european fashion. There are a lot of luxury materials as fine wools and also silk and they are not local products.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYyaPZHgruOImTwKS0W2GcUb_Y_2nFQn5S09l3xOf5L3MzW69BebuXnQclm87y41-NrUVDK9mQ03pPMJXtbr7nV-JOp_w8SGJLO-Mq-YeVHdvC5HN4DSOYx0MgNfqAUO-_4yPRFZvTQEMX/s1600/IMG_1218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYyaPZHgruOImTwKS0W2GcUb_Y_2nFQn5S09l3xOf5L3MzW69BebuXnQclm87y41-NrUVDK9mQ03pPMJXtbr7nV-JOp_w8SGJLO-Mq-YeVHdvC5HN4DSOYx0MgNfqAUO-_4yPRFZvTQEMX/s400/IMG_1218.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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- Kun katsoo Tartoa, on kuin katsoisi Lontoon keskiaikaisia löytöjä, Riina kuvaili. Ja toden totta: leikattuja koristereunoja, silkkiä, punaista punaista punaista...<br />
- If you look at Tarto finds, it´s like looking at medieval finds from London, Riina said. Indeed; tagged edges, silk and red red red.<br />
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Tässä makupala: silkkiraitaa villakankaassa!<br />
Delicious: silk stripes on wool!<br />
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Napinlävet on ommeltu paksulla silkkilangalla.<br />
Buttonholes, sewn with silk yarn.<br />
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Poimutuksia. Missäs minä näitä näinkään... niin, Turussa!<br />
Pleatings... where did I see them too.. oh yes, in Turku!<br />
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Hupun reuna ja koriste, joka myös huolittelee käännöksen. On muutes yhdensorttista ketjupistoa tuo.<br />
A hood edge and a decoration, which also finishes the hemming of the hood. Look, it is on sort of chain stich there.<br />
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Useiden kankaiden upea punainen loisto näkyy edelleen.<br />
The red color is still very visible.<br />
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Tuota poimutusta en hennonut purkaa muovipakkauksesta.<br />
This pleating I did not take out from the plastic container.<br />
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Hupun reuna, yksityiskohta<br />
Hood edge, a detail.<br />
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Nyörinreiän langat voi edelleen laskea: kasvikuitu on kadonnut, mutta langan jättämät reiät näkyvät.<br />
Eyelet, and the stitch holes are still visible. Seems to be sewn with vegetable fibre, the yarn is gone but holes it made are still there.<br />
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Raidallista silkkikangasta.<br />
Striped silk fabric.<br />
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Ja sitten tämä! Mekko villapalttinaa, pääntie huoliteltu silkkinauhalla, joka on kiinnitetty silkkilangalla. Kuva nurjalta puolelta.<br />
And then this! Woolen dress in plain weave, neckline finished with silk band, sewn on place with silk yarn. Reverse side.<br />
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Laitetaan lopuksi vielä vähän hienoa ruutukangasta.<br />
And one more: fine woolen fabric, checkered.<br />
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Palttinoita ripsiraidoin / tabby with extended tabby stripes<br />
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Iskunyöriä sillkistä / finderloop braiding in silk<br />
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Tähtihetki! Star struck moment! (Riina is awesome)<br />
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<b>Kuvat: fragmenttikuvat Mervi, pönötyskuvat Riinan kanssa otti Krista Vajanto.</b><br />
<b>Kuvat julkaistaan Riina Rammon luvalla.</b><br />
<b>Ethän kopioi!</b><br />
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<b>Photos: fragments: Mervi Pasanen, posing with idol: Krista Vajanto.</b><br />
<b>Pictures published with permission of Riina</b><br />
<b>Please, don't copy!</b><br />
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<b>Tekstiä päivitetty 17.12: väitös hyväksyttiin ja sen<a href="http://dspace.ut.ee/bitstream/handle/10062/49523/rammo_riina.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y" target="_blank"> verkkoversio (ilman artikkeleita) on luettavissa täältä</a></b><br />
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Updated 17.12: Defense went well and was accepted. The PhD´s <a href="http://dspace.ut.ee/bitstream/handle/10062/49523/rammo_riina.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y" target="_blank">web version (without articles) can be read from here</a><br />
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ps. Krista Vajannon väitös rautakauden ja keskiajan värjäysmenetelmistä tulossa 16.1. 2016!!<br />
ps. Krista Vajanto will have her defense about late iron age dyes 16.1. 2016!!<br />
<br />Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-44497157228939701362015-11-02T16:21:00.003+02:002015-11-03T15:48:11.573+02:00Kehruukurssi Tukholmassa / spinning course at Stockholm<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Mestarin tekemiä. Lena Hammarlundin kehräämät näytteet. /Samples spun by a real master, Lena Hammarlund.</i></div>
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- Jos saamme Lena Hammarlundin pitämään kehruukurssia, tuletko, kysyi Maria Neijman eräänä päivänä.</div>
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- Kyllä, vastasin heti. Olin näet tutustunut Lenaan ja hänen työhönsä toissakeväänä Itävallan Halstattissa, tekstiiliarkeologian symposimissa eli Nesatissa. Lena tekee työtä yhteistyössä tekstiiliarkeologien kanssa ja ennallistaa näille tekstiilejä. Hän valitsee villat, kehrää ne ja kutoo. Ilman muuta olisin mukana!</div>
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Ninpä sitten lensin eräänä perjantaiaamuna Tukholmaan.</div>
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- Hey, if we get Lena Hammarlund to teach at spinning course, will you come, Maria Neijman asked a while ago.</div>
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- Absolutely, I answered immediately. You see, I met Lena the other spring at Hallstatt, Austria at textile archeaology symposium Nesat. I have seen her work: she recreates archeological textiles, starting from choosing the right kind of wool fibres to spinning and weaving. So yes, I would be there!</div>
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So, one Friday morning I took a flight to Stockholm.</div>
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<i>Oh boy, what a sign was waiting for me at Bromma airport !</i></div>
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Koska kurssi alkoi illalla, vietimme Marian kanssa päivän Uppsalassa. Kävimme tuomiokirkon aarekammiossa katsomassa muun muassa tätä Margaretan kultaista pukua.</div>
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Since the course started in the evening, we had time to spend at Uppsala. Maria took me to Uppsala cathedrals treasure chamber where they keep for example this Margaretas golden dress.</div>
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Uppsalan museossa vierailimme toiveena nähdä Uppsalan neulakinnasukka, mutta eipä ollut vitriinissä alkuperäistä löytöä, vain tämä replica. Kun se sukka on kuulemma aloitettu kantapäästä (!!), niin olisi ollut kiva nähdä se omin silmin.<br />
At Uppsala museum we hoped to see nalbinded Uppsala sock, the original, but no, there is only a replica on display. I wanted to see it because it is said that it´s started from the heel (!!) and therefore very interesting piece.<br />
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Ja sitten itse asiaan: kurssilla ei niinkään opetettu kehräämään, vaan lajittelemaan villaa ja miettimään, millainen villa sopii mihinkin tarkoitukseen. Käsittelimme nimenomaan alkuperäisrotujen villoja, emme mitään superjalostettuja laatuja. Ruotsalaisilla näitä rotuja on useita, Minä vein mennessäni Hollolan Manskivessä kasvanutta ahvenanmaan lampaan villaa ja kolmea erilaista jaalanlampaan villaa.<br />
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The course was not about spinning itself, but more about what you do before the spinning: jhow to choose a right kind of wool to certain textile, and how to sort one fleece. We handled swedish races which are considered to their primitive ones, and I took fleeces of åland sheep and three different jaala sheep.<br />
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Tästä lähdettiin: pöydälle levitettiin aina yhden lampaan villa kerrallaan.<br />
This is how we worked: we had one fleece at the time on the table.<br />
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Mitä siis teimme? Tutkimme kokonaisen taljan ja lajittelimme sen osiin. Tässä esimerkiksi työn alla gutefår eli se toinen gotlantilainen alkuperäisrotu. Karitsan villa oli pahoin huopunut, mutta silti siitä oli vielä erotettavissa erilaisia osia.</div>
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So what we did? We looked through a whole fleece and sorted it. Here for example is quite a lot felted gutefår fleece, but despite of felting, we still were able to separate different fibres from it.</div>
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Otetaan villatapuli ja venytetään.... ja näin yhdestä tapulista saadaankin kahta erilaista kuitua.<br />
You take a staple and stretch... and there you got two different kind of fibres from one staple.<br />
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..korjaan, kolmea: siellä välissä on ns. kuollutta villaa eli suoria, karkeita osia. Niitä emme halua hienoon lankaan, joten ne erotellaan joukosta.</div>
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... actually there is a third kind of fibre, the kempe. This stiff, coarse wool we don´t want in to our fine yarn, so they need to be separated.</div>
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Yksi viikonlopun pehmeimmistä villoista oli fin ull - eli ruotsalaisten vastine suomenlampaalle. Sen villa on pehmeää, kiiltävää ja kiharaa, aivan erilaista kuin esimerkiksi gute.</div>
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Tämän villan me lajittelimme ja käsittelimme langaksi kolmella eri tavalla eli suoraan kehräämällä, sitten karstaten ja kammaten. Ja tässä kohtaa tapahtui minun valaistumiseni. Fanfaarit kaikuivat sielussani, kun Lena antoi kehrättäväkseni pienen kampaamansa lepereen.</div>
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Halleluja! Oivallus! Mitä paremmin valmisteltu hahtuva, sitä mahtavampaa kehrääminen on! Oi kuulkaa kaikki! Lenan kampaama lepere muuttui kuin taikaistusta langaksi verrattuna siihen siniseen karstavillaan, jota olen menneet viikot nyhrännyt. Kannatti lentää Tukholmaan! </div>
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One of the weekend finest wools was swedish fin ull - soft, curly and shiny. Very different from gute.</div>
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This fleece we sorted and then spun. We tested how it spins with out anu treatment, then we carded and combed it. And here it happened: like a holy light of spinning hit me. Hear those heavenly trumpets, when Lena gave me some wool which she had prepared.</div>
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Oh hallelluja! I get it! The more well prepared - the easier the spinning is! Now hear this!</div>
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Lena´s comben fluffy thing turned into a fine yarn on my spindle like it was magic - and easily, compared to that carded blue wool I have been struggling last weeks. Flying to Stockholm was worth it!</div>
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<i>Mikä ihana villapilvi! Just look at that wool cloud!</i><br />
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Mutta hei, siinähän on erilaatuisia kuituja... but hey, look, there are different kind of fibers---<br />
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Ja kas, myös kuollutta kuitua! And look, kempe too!<br />
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Tämä ihanuus on kuulkaa jaalanlammasta: megapehmeä hieno pohjavilla, josta olen erottanut pitkät ja karkeat kuidut erikseen.<br />
This here is jaalasheep: megasoft bottom wool and looong top wool separated.<br />
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Tässä kammataan jaalanlampaan villaa.<br />
Lena and jaala wool in action.<br />
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<i>Kovasti töitä, mutta todella kivaa / All work, and lot of fun!</i><br />
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<i>Tässä on katsottavaa: näin paljon erilaisia lankoja saa yhdestä ainoasta lampaasta kun osaa lajitella ja kehrätä.</i><br />
<i>Look at this: all these yarns are from one sheep only. This is what you get if you know how to sort and spin.</i><br />
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Pakko oli ottaa fanikuva / Lena and me... fan girl moment!<br />
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Ja sitten kotona Riku teki minulle ihan ikiomat isot villakammat / at home: Riku made me these big wool combs!Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-2007405634678075622015-10-18T12:20:00.000+03:002015-10-18T12:20:17.306+03:00Neulakinnaskirja on nyt valmis / Nalbinding book is now published<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Huh, iso työ on virallisesti tehty. Kirja tuli painosta. / Phew, it was a lot of work but now I can say it´s done. The book is out.</i></div>
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Mukavan tyhjä olo: neulakinnaskirjani <b>Yhdellä neulalla - Neulakinnastekniikka tutuksi</b> (ISBN 978 952 254 247 2<span style="font-family: verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 11px;">) </span></span>tuli painosta. Olen nyt tehnyt osuuteni; seuraavaksi on lukijoiden vuoro kokeilla, arvioida ja kommentoida.. toivottavasti pidätte!</div>
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Ja niin, se on vain suomeksi, koska Moreeni ei tee muilla kielillä. Kovasti tätä on intetty jo englanniksi ja ruotsiksikin... Mutta tein teille siis suomalaisen neulakinnaskirjan. Eka laatuaan. Joo, kakkososaan olisi jo pari ideaa..</div>
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Nice, sort of empty feeling. The nalbinding book is out (in english the title is By one needle - Get familiar with nalbinding technique) I have now done my share, next it is readers turn to test and comment. I hope they enjoy my work.</div>
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And yes, so far it is only in Finnish - since publishing house Moreeni publishes only in Finnish. They recerved rights to translations too, but that would need searching a foreign publisher. Of course I hope that this will be translated in english too.</div>
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Eli mitäs siellä sitten on: hieman historiaa, useita erilaisia aloituksia, käännöksiä, värinvaihtoja, koristeita, jopa pieni lautanauhakin kudottu. Kintaita, sukkia, pipoja, huiveja.</div>
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So, what is there: some history, several different ways to make a start, turns, multiple colors, color changes, decorations - and even one tablet woven band! Mittens, socks, hats and scarfs.</div>
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Ohjeet on selitetty sanoin ja kuvin / everything is explained by words and pictures</div>
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Suosikkikintaani ovat nämä: valkoista jaalanlampaan villaa, koristeltu värjäämistäni jaalanlampaan langoilla kutotulla lautanauhalla. / These are my favourites; white jaala sheep wool and tablet woven decorations are natural dyed jaala sheep wool too.</div>
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Tämä oli muutes viides kirjavuosi peräkkäin! This was fifth publishing year in row. </div>
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Kohti seuraavia haasteita siis: ensi viikonloppuna lähden Tukholmaan Lena Hammarlundin pitämälle kehräyskurssille! Olen siitä innostuneena harjoittanut tätä addiktoivaa käsityön taitoa. Ja löysin ne siniset villatkin; karstasin ja kokeilin kehrätä oikein ohutta lankaa. Maikki näet kehrää (tietysti) hurjan tasaista ja ohutta lankaa, josta kutoo sitten lautanauhoja. Minä tahdon oppia sen myös!<br />
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This is my next challenge: next weekend I´m going to Stockholm Sweden to Lena Hammarlunds spinning course! I´m very exited about it and really trying to learn spinning. I even found my blue wool, carded it and now I´m trying to make super thin yarn. You see, Maikki spins fine yarn for tablet weaving and I want to learn that too!<br />
<br />Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-61017239513266847582015-10-06T16:48:00.003+03:002015-10-27T14:23:58.333+02:00Siksälä valmis, omaa odotellaan / Siksälä books are out, mine will be soon too<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Tunnelmapala neulakinnaskirjan kuvauksista heinäkuulta: en kyllä arvannut, että joutuisin itse malliksi, mutta tottahan se on että työt näyttävät paremmilta puettuina. Jos olisin tiennyt... olisin laittanut edes ripsiväriä!</i><br />
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<i>Feelings from last July from nalbinding books photoshoot. I did not guess that I would pose myself but it is true that all the finished pieces look so much better when someone is wearing them. if I knew about posing, I would have had at least mascara! </i><br />
<i>Photo: Ritva Tuomi.</i><br />
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Jännittää!! Neulakinnaskirja tulee ulos parin viikon päästä!<br />
Sen nimi on siis <b>Yhdellä neulalla - neulakinnastekniikka tutuksi. Moreeni-kustantamo. ISBN 978-952-254-247-2</b><br />
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So exited! My nalbinding book is out in few week. So far only in finnish. Check the name and ISBN above.<br />
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Mutta hei, tätä odotin ehkä vielä enemmän: katsokaa mitä naapurissa on tehty! Siksälän kalmiston kirjat, niitä on osa I ja II, ovat ilmaiseksi kaikkien luettavissa internetissä. Kaikki haudat! Kaikki esineet! Kaivauskertomuksia!<br />
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But what I really have waited is this: Siksälä book! Part one and two! Free in internet! All the graves and items!<br />
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Sain tämän kataloogin jo <a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2015/05/pronssia-ja-ihanuutta-eesti-rahva.html" target="_blank">keväällä vieraillessani Tartossa, </a>olen sitä kosketellut ja ihaillut ja viime viikkon asti tästä piti vaieta, mutta nyt saa hehkuttaa.<br />
Upea työ ja kulttuuriteko. Menkää nettiin ja ladatkaa kummatkin.<br />
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I got this as a real book already last spring<a href="http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2015/05/pronssia-ja-ihanuutta-eesti-rahva.html" target="_blank"> when I visited Tarto.</a>. I have been admiring it and kept quiet about it but last week it finally became public. So great work! Go to internet and download these free books.<br />
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<a href="http://www.arheo.ut.ee/docs/siksali-I-veebi-.pdf">http://www.arheo.ut.ee/docs/siksali-I-veebi-.pdf</a> <o:p></o:p></div>
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Tässä muutama aamuhämäräinen makupala. Lähikuvissa viittaa haudasta 220 - se kenties upein.<br />
here some tasty bits photographed in morning mist. Close ups; shawl 220, the most beautiful, I think.<br />
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Ja sitten vielä: meillä oli Iloisen Joutsenen metsäretki. Antti Kuparinen otti kuvia!<br />
And then: Merry Swan made a forest walk. <b>Antti Kuparinen</b> took these awesome photos!<br />
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<br />Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5795138558184354600.post-26936817172054950162015-09-21T16:55:00.002+03:002015-10-02T22:29:07.651+03:00Yes Chef! Cooking at Ronneburg - Including the Pie Recipe!!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Kyllä, siellä keittiössä oli savua. Yes, there was a bit smoke in the kitchen.</i><br />
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Tähän alkuun se tuttu selitys, kun blogipostaukset viivästyvät: hyvänen aika että on ollut KIIRE!<br />
No. Olimme siis elokuun lopulla jälleen kerran Ronneburgissa Saksassa elävöittämässä 1300-lukua <a href="http://www.ig-mim.de/" target="_blank">MiMien</a> vieraana.<br />
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<a href="http://lethemboyle.com/2015/09/01/cooking-at-castle-ronneburg/" target="_blank">Saara </a>ja<a href="http://www.neulakko.net/?p=9572" target="_blank"> Elina</a> taisivatkin jo kertoa kaikenlaista retkestämme. Meillä oli mahtavaa, tapasimme tavattoman kivoja uusia ihmisiä ja tuskin maltamme odottaa kahta vuotta, että saamme taas kutsun. Toivotaan niin!<br />
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Meillä oli Saaran kanssa iso urakka linnan kokkeina. Meillä oli useamman kokin joukkue vastaamassa viikonlopun muonituksesta ja meidän vastuullamme oli ruokia niin perjantain kuin lauantainkin lounailla. Niiden lisäksi olin aamiaiskokkina ja ruokin kansaa kuuluisalla puurollani.<br />
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Hi Sweeties! Yes, now I have to start with the old phrase what you use when it has been too long time since previous post: gosh I have been BUSY!<br />
So: we have once again been in castle Ronneburg in Germany, re-enacting 14th century in <a href="http://www.ig-mim.de/" target="_blank">MiMs </a>event 100 Jahre 14tes Jahrhundert.<br />
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<a href="http://lethemboyle.com/2015/09/01/cooking-at-castle-ronneburg/" target="_blank">Saara </a>and<a href="http://www.neulakko.net/?p=9572" target="_blank"> Elina</a> already told you a lot about our great trip in their blogs.<br />
It was awesome again! Met new people, old friends and now we just can´t wait to get an invitation in two years ... fingers crossed!<br />
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Me and Saara had a lot to do in the castle: we were part of the Chef team. This year a group of chefs took care of all the meals in the event. We for example cooked for Friday and Saturday lunch and I was the breakfast cook also. I fed them with my famous porridge for example.<br />
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Perjantaina teimme uppopaistettuja juustotankoja (krumme krapfen): otetaan yhtä paljon raastettua juustoa, jauhoja ja munia, tehdään napakka taikinamainen seos, josta muotoillaan pieniä hevosenkenkiä. Ne sitten uppopaistetaan.<br />
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Lauantaina tarjoilimme sekä Douce amea että niitä mahtavia lihahedelmäpiiraita, joiden reseptin opimme Elinan kanssa Middelaldercentretissä muutamaa viikkoa aikaisemmin. Ostimme niitä varten tarvittavia puukuppeja muoteiksi ja veimme ne mennessämme myös Ronneburgiin.<br />
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Piiraat olivat suurmenestys, samoin Douce ame eli maukas kanaruoka, jota olemme Saaran kanssa tarjoneet kotimaassakin. Moni kysyi, miten piiraat tehdään ja toki haluamme jakaa tätä ihanaa reseptiä eteenpäin (Jatka vähän vielä eteenpäin).<br />
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Tässä koko kokkitiimi. Here is the kitchen team.Plus one kid.<br />
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At Friday we served for example krumme krapfen, which is like deep fried cheese: you take grated cheese, as much flour and as much eggs. Mix everything well. Make in shape of horse shoes and deep fry. Yummy goodness!<br />
At Saturday we made Douce ame and then those tasty small pies, which we learned to make in Middelaldercentret with Elina. We had bought the wooden cups as baking forms and took them with us to the castle kitchen.<br />
So many asked how they were made, so we wish to share the recipe.<br />
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Tässä siis resepti, jonka nimi voisi olla vaikka <br />
<strong>Tosi hyvät lihahedelmäpiiraat Iloisen Joutsenen tapaan.</strong><br />
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Taikina:<br />
0,5 l maitoa<br />
500 g voita<br />
n. 1 kg vehnäjauhoja, joista osa voi olla grahamjauhoja<br />
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Täyte:<br />
500 g jauhelihaa<br />
pari siivua kuivaa leipää<br />
2 kananmunaa<br />
1 sipuli<br />
1-2 omenaa<br />
500 g tuoreita luumuja<br />
mausteeksi suolaa<br />
1 rkl poudre douce -mausteseosta <a href="http://lethemboyle.com/basic-recipesperusohjeet/powder-douce/" target="_blank">(katso Saaran blogista miten se tehdään)</a><br />
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1. Lämmitä maitoa ja voita lieden lämmössä, kunnes voi sulaa. Kaada taikinakaukaloon ja anna jäähtyä hetken.<br />
2. Lisää jauhot vähitellen vaivaten. Lisää jauhoja kunnes taikina on kiinteä. Sen pitää olla ihan hieman tarttuva, mutta ei missään nimessä erottuvan rasvainen. Näppituntumalla siis. Jätät taikina jäähtymään huoneen viileään kohtaan. Jos keittiössäsi ei ole viileää missään, kokeile linnantornin ikkunasyvennystä.<br />
3. Tee sillä välin täyte. Hienonna sipulit, pieni omenat ja kuutioi luumut pieniksi paloiksi. Laita kaikki ainekset suureen taikinakaukaloon ja sekoita tasaiseksi. Mausta hyvin.<br />
4. Leivo taikinasta pieniä pyörylöitä jauhotetulla pöydällä. Käytä muottina esimerkiksi noin kämmenen kokoista puukuppia: laita kuoripala kuppiin, leikkaa ylimääräiset reunoilta pois ja annostele piirakkaan täytettä. Pyöräytä taikinasta kansi, taita reunaa kannen päälle ja ryputä. Tee kanteen pieni reikä.<br />
5. Paista uunissa hyvällä tulella. Kotiuunissa 225 astetta ja 20 minuuttia eli kunnes piirakka on ruskistunut ja täyte kypsää.<br />
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So here is the recipe, which we could call<br />
<strong>The awesome meat-fruit pies á la Merry Swan.</strong><br />
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Dough:<br />
5 dl milk<br />
500 g butter<br />
about 1 kilo of wheat flour (some of it can be whole-wheat flour)<br />
Filling:<br />
500 g minced meat<br />
couple of slices of dry bread<br />
2 eggs<br />
1 onion<br />
1-2 apples<br />
500 g fresh plums<br />
salt<br />
1 table spoon of poudre douce spice mix <a href="http://lethemboyle.com/basic-recipesperusohjeet/powder-douce/" target="_blank">(look from Saara´s blog how to make it if you dont have any)</a><br />
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1. Heat the milk in cauldron, add butter. Mix until butter melts. Pour into a large bowl. Let the milk cool a while.<br />
2. Add flour bit by bit, and knead the dough. Add flours until the dough is firm but still a bit sticky, not greasy. This you have to learn to feel. Cover the dough with piece of linen cloth and leave it to cool. If your kitchen with several open fires and hot oven has no cool spot in it, try to find the cooler place from castle tower etc.<br />
3. Make the filling. Cut the onions, apples and plums into small pieces. Add all the ingredients to the bown and mix them well.<br />
4. Bring the dough from the castle tower. Pour some flour on the table and bake small round pie bases. But them into a small wooden cups, cut extra dough off. Put some filling in. Make a lid, put it on the filling, turn the edges of the pie on top of the lid and crinkle the edges. Make a hole to the lid, tht way the steam gets out. Tip the pie from the wooden cup.<br />
5. Bake in good hot oven for suitable time. At home I would say 225 C, 20 minutes. Test: pies must be cooked from inside.<br />
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Tämä on aivan mahtavaa: kaikki ruoka tehdään avotulella.<br />
Real cooking on real fire.<br />
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Uppopaistettuja juustotankoja: krumme krapfen!<br />
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Monta kokkia ja leipuri, paljon ruokaa. Many cooks and a baker, a lot of good food!<br />
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Samaan aikaan kässähuoneessa: meanwhile in the craft room.<br />
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Sixten oli tullut paikalle äitinsä Marian kanssa. Sixten was there with his lovely mother Maria.<br />
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Riku ehti auttaa myös keittiössä. Riku was also helping in the kitchen.</div>
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Tämä on siis niin wau: Luxemburgilaisella kokkiporukalla oli mukana omat jauhinkivet!<br />
Look at this wow: the cooks from Luxemburg,group called Apri Lubilundi, had their own grindstones to make flour!<br />
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Iloisen Joutsenen piirakkakone käy: leivo, muotoile, täytä, rypytä.<br />
Merry Swan pie factory is go: bake, shape, fill, crinkle.<br />
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Piiraat odottamassa paistoa. Teimme teholeipomossamme yli 60 tällaista.<br />
Pies on their way to oven. Our pie factory made over 60 of these pies.<br />
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Kunniatehtävä! Sixten tilasi minulta puuroa aamupalaksi ja siilin - koska oli nähnyt keittokirjassamme sellaisen lihapullan. No, totta kai tein kuten nuori herra toivoi!<br />
What an honour! Sixted had asked for two things: porridge and a hedgehog. He has seen a such a shaped meat ball in our cook book. Of course I did like the young master said!<br />
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Sixtenin siilipiiras matkalla uuniin.<br />
Sixtens hedgehog waiting to be baked.<br />
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Rikulla oli paljon seuraa. Ruotsalainen Linda kävi myös veistelemässä.</div>
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Riku had a lot of company. Also Linda from Sweden carved her spoon with him</div>
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Parasta Ronneburgissa on keittiö. Avotulien nostattama savu tekee siitä upean - ei ihme, että tästä tilasta tulee maalauksellisia valokuvia.<br />
Best thing in the castle is the kitchen. The open fires on stove rise a lot of smoke in the air - and it creates perfect setting for photos that look like paintings.<br />
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No maisemat siellä ovat omaa luokkaansa.<br />
The landscape is breathtaking.<br />
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Keittiöstä piti välillä lähteä pois, sillä kuumuus oli ajoittain tosi uuvuttava. Viilennellessä voi tehdä muita töitä, vaikkapa neulakintaita.<br />
I had to leave the kitchen every now and then just because the heat from open fires was occasinally simply too much. While cooling down tit was good time to do something else, like nalbinding.<br />
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"Jaa, jokos meidän asenäytös kohta alkaa."<br />
"I say, is it about the time for our show."<br />
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Lauantain illallisella ehdimme kaikki istua ruokapöydän ääreen. Minulla oli jopa uusi mekko päällä!<br />
At Saturday evening we had time to sit down to eat. I even had my new dress.<br />
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Riku löytyi tutulta paikaltaan eli pihalta veistelemästä puulusikoita.<br />
Riku was at his own familiar spot: carwing spoons.<br />
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Ihana ihana Taija, joka tiskasi koko viikonlopun aamusta iltaan. Superwoman Taija, who was doing the dishes from early morning to late evening.<br />
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Saara oli linnassa kuin kotonaan. Oli mukavaa nähdä miten toinen nautti olostaan ensimmäisellä linnareissullaan.<br />
I loved seeing how Saara really enjoyed her first visit to Ronneburg.<br />
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Ja lopuksi pakolliset pöljäilyt! Iloinen Joutsen plus Ulla-Mari.<br />
And of course we had to end the trip to the traditional fooling! Merry Swans and Ulla-Mari.<br />
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<br />Mervihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05907790403775258867noreply@blogger.com4